A voyage to the end of the Earth

Six months ago, if you had suggested I go on a cruise I would have laughed in your face. To be honest, I have always been a bit of a snob about the idea of cruising. Too many people. Only for pensioners. A holiday for the sedentary.

My husband Sten and I have always strived to get as far from the madding crowd as possible, and Bertelsen family holidays are very active. For example we once spent a month hiking Bhutan’s Snowman Trek – over 11 Himalayan passes above 5,000m – which was ambitious but do-able following intensive training. So when my friend Tom said I just had to go on a cruise, I thought he’d gone mad.

But he was fresh from two weeks in Antarctica aboard the expedition ship Viking Polaris. Antarctica? He had my attention.

AN ANTARCTIC ODYSSEY
Antarctica has held a lifelong fascination for me as an impenetrable and hostile environment that didn’t even favour the brave. Pictures of Robert Falcon Scott decorated the walls of my childhood bedroom, and I’ve devoured daring tales of British explorers risking their life and honour to get to the South Pole ever since.

So Antarctica was the number-one destination on my bucket list – but, at 61, I knew I wasn’t going to get there pulling my own body weight on a sledge. The only way to at least step on to the frozen continent was to cast aside my bigoted opinion of cruising – and thank goodness I did.

After being transferred from Ushuaia airport in Argentina by bus, we were guided up the ramp of Viking Octantis – an expedition vessel identical to its sister ship, Viking Polaris – to smiles and a warm, personalised welcome.

Despite our challenging destination, I had assumed we’d be assaulted by glitz and bling rather than the exquisite contemporary interior before us. Encouraging.

Viking’s design brief was clearly ‘less is more’, and no one does cosy yet clean lines as well as the Scandinavians. It’s near impossible to make crisp modernity feel laidback but they manage it with muted colours, wood, leather and reindeer rugs casually tossed over the backs of sofas.

The scenery takes centre stage through floor-to ceiling windows but the ship’s creature comforts make it easy to forget your polar location – a place where Mother Nature has the power to unleash her fury at any moment.

POLAR PIONEER
However experienced a sailor you are, seasickness can hit you hard, especially crossing the Drake Passage. But as we entered our stateroom (cabin), I figured there are much worse places to feel off-colour.

The room was stunning and spacious, with a kingsize bed and plenty of wardrobes, and thinking back to those early explorers I almost felt guilty that we were travelling in such understated luxury.

So far, so spectacular. But what made this voyage really stand out were the expedition team and staff. Their kindness, never-ending smiles and polite answers to questions they must have heard a thousand times made our trip unforgettable. Their attention to detail was impeccable.

No corners were cut, and it was the little things that had the biggest impact, like finding a bookmark in the place I’d left my novel open. Who does that? Perhaps the same person who’d noticed my fondness for chocolate by the empty wrappers in the bin and supplied me with a large stash.

The other passengers on my trip were mainly from the United States, the UK and Australia. Most were retirees and cruise aficionados who were blown away by every aspect of Viking. What joy it was to be in an environment free from complaints and an atmosphere of unbridled enthusiasm. No matter what our ages or nationalities, none of us could contain ourselves at the wonder of the vast, white landscape.

Breaching humpbacks, lounging seals and penguins proved to be the best agents for making new friends and breaking down inhibitions. I would have happily travelled solo because I would never have been alone.

FROZEN FRONTIER
Viking Octantis does more than just take guests to Earth’s last great wilderness. Once there, its 17 inflatable Zodiac boats, 16 kayaks, two special operations boats – and yes, even two yellow submarines – enhanced our burgeoning understanding of Antarctica’s vital ecosystem.

The tranquillity of kayaking struck us most. The accentuated peacefulness heightened the sounds of nature: the slosh of paddles slicing through the Southern Ocean, the echoing roar of glaciers breaking away in the distance and the playful snorts of a seal, observing us from its icy domain.

With only the thin barrier of our kayaks separating us from the chilly waters below, there was a thrilling vulnerability to the privilege of our isolation. Given the chance to explore by submarine, Sten opted to stay on the ship as he felt nervous – the drama queen – but I didn’t hesitate to sign up. I wasn’t going to miss an opportunity to dive to the depths of the Southern Ocean, especially as Viking is so safety-focused.

As we descended, all colour faded to black. When our pilot illuminated the sandy sea floor, the submarine’s floodlights revealed an astonishing array of ancient species: prehistoric ice fish, sun starfish, and a rare 10-metre phantom jellyfish. It was a spectacular moment, leaving us in awe of the unknown.

With the health of the Antarctic being a priority for Viking, I assumed a polar plunge would be off the menu so we could keep the water pristine. But then it was announced that anyone wanting to experience this rite of passage should meet at the stern. One of the plunge pools had been filled with Southern Ocean and about 50 of us waited our turn to jump in. Think of a G&T with ice and imagine leaping into the glass. What a blast!

Those of us bold enough to brave the cold – so not my husband, then – were rewarded with a certificate to confirm our courage. To say that visiting Antarctica is the trip of a lifetime is an understatement.

Nothing – and I mean nothing – can prepare you for the magnitude and majesty of this place. But I expected that.

What I didn’t anticipate was my attitude towards cruising irreversibly changing. Despite a lifetime of travel, this was my first real holiday. Just because we go abroad for two weeks doesn’t mean we come back rested. Far from it. But that wasn’t the case after our cruise.

Our relaxed state from two weeks on Viking Octantis was bone deep, as if our minds had been treated to a deep tissue massage. We didn’t have to make a single decision – beyond what cut of beef to have – so we emerged from our holiday with a sense of renewal, feeling invigorated and – dare I say, excited – to tackle mundane errands back home.

The great privilege of experiencing Antarctica is overwhelming and it should never be taken for granted. There is so much we can learn from this region, and visitors become ambassadors for it, safeguarding its future.

Get on board
Viking’s 12-night Antarctic Explorer cruise onboard Viking Octantis from Buenos Aires (Argentina) to Ushuaia (Argentina) via the Drake Passage and Cape Horn, costs from £9,995 for a November 2024 sailing. Fare includes return flights from the UK.

WHAT TO PACK
One of the advantages of our cruise was the lack of sartorial pretension. This was reflected in the contents of my suitcase; there wasn’t a sequin in sight.

Packing for Antarctica is like packing to go skiing, so I focused on the practical, being careful not to take too much. Summer temperatures can be -3°, but take the bitter windchill into account, and remember, there are no handy shops! So don’t forget these must-have items:

A woolly hat
Neck gaiters and scarves
Thermal underwear
Cashmere jumpers
Warm trousers
A fleece or down waistcoat
Trainers
Sheepskin slippers
Ski socks
Ski goggles or sunglasses
Ski gloves
Swimming costume
Kwells seasick pills
Paracetamol
Factor 50 suncream
Minimal make-up and toiletries
Hair ties
An adaptor