A voyage to the end of the Earth

POLAR PIONEER
However experienced a sailor you are, seasickness can hit you hard, especially crossing the Drake Passage. But as we entered our stateroom (cabin), I figured there are much worse places to feel off-colour.

The room was stunning and spacious, with a kingsize bed and plenty of wardrobes, and thinking back to those early explorers I almost felt guilty that we were travelling in such understated luxury.

So far, so spectacular. But what made this voyage really stand out were the expedition team and staff. Their kindness, never-ending smiles and polite answers to questions they must have heard a thousand times made our trip unforgettable. Their attention to detail was impeccable.

No corners were cut, and it was the little things that had the biggest impact, like finding a bookmark in the place I’d left my novel open. Who does that? Perhaps the same person who’d noticed my fondness for chocolate by the empty wrappers in the bin and supplied me with a large stash.

The other passengers on my trip were mainly from the United States, the UK and Australia. Most were retirees and cruise aficionados who were blown away by every aspect of Viking. What joy it was to be in an environment free from complaints and an atmosphere of unbridled enthusiasm. No matter what our ages or nationalities, none of us could contain ourselves at the wonder of the vast, white landscape.

Breaching humpbacks, lounging seals and penguins proved to be the best agents for making new friends and breaking down inhibitions. I would have happily travelled solo because I would never have been alone.

FROZEN FRONTIER
Viking Octantis does more than just take guests to Earth’s last great wilderness. Once there, its 17 inflatable Zodiac boats, 16 kayaks, two special operations boats – and yes, even two yellow submarines – enhanced our burgeoning understanding of Antarctica’s vital ecosystem.

The tranquillity of kayaking struck us most. The accentuated peacefulness heightened the sounds of nature: the slosh of paddles slicing through the Southern Ocean, the echoing roar of glaciers breaking away in the distance and the playful snorts of a seal, observing us from its icy domain.

With only the thin barrier of our kayaks separating us from the chilly waters below, there was a thrilling vulnerability to the privilege of our isolation. Given the chance to explore by submarine, Sten opted to stay on the ship as he felt nervous – the drama queen – but I didn’t hesitate to sign up. I wasn’t going to miss an opportunity to dive to the depths of the Southern Ocean, especially as Viking is so safety-focused.

As we descended, all colour faded to black. When our pilot illuminated the sandy sea floor, the submarine’s floodlights revealed an astonishing array of ancient species: prehistoric ice fish, sun starfish, and a rare 10-metre phantom jellyfish. It was a spectacular moment, leaving us in awe of the unknown.

With the health of the Antarctic being a priority for Viking, I assumed a polar plunge would be off the menu so we could keep the water pristine. But then it was announced that anyone wanting to experience this rite of passage should meet at the stern. One of the plunge pools had been filled with Southern Ocean and about 50 of us waited our turn to jump in. Think of a G&T with ice and imagine leaping into the glass. What a blast!

Those of us bold enough to brave the cold – so not my husband, then – were rewarded with a certificate to confirm our courage. To say that visiting Antarctica is the trip of a lifetime is an understatement.

Nothing – and I mean nothing – can prepare you for the magnitude and majesty of this place. But I expected that.

What I didn’t anticipate was my attitude towards cruising irreversibly changing. Despite a lifetime of travel, this was my first real holiday. Just because we go abroad for two weeks doesn’t mean we come back rested. Far from it. But that wasn’t the case after our cruise.

Our relaxed state from two weeks on Viking Octantis was bone deep, as if our minds had been treated to a deep tissue massage. We didn’t have to make a single decision – beyond what cut of beef to have – so we emerged from our holiday with a sense of renewal, feeling invigorated and – dare I say, excited – to tackle mundane errands back home.

The great privilege of experiencing Antarctica is overwhelming and it should never be taken for granted. There is so much we can learn from this region, and visitors become ambassadors for it, safeguarding its future.

Get on boardViking’s 12-night Antarctic Explorer cruise onboard Viking Octantis from Buenos Aires (Argentina) to Ushuaia (Argentina) via the Drake Passage and Cape Horn, costs from £9,995 for a November 2024 sailing. Fare includes return flights from the UK.