Arctic adventures: in search of the northern lights

The Northern Lights – a mesmerising show across the Arctic sky, named after the Roman goddess of dawn – has long featured on my bucket list.

But this kind of trip can be time-consuming and stressful to organise independently. To see this spectacle of nature, you’ll also need lady luck on your side: the Northern Lights are elusive and unpredictable at the best of times and dependent on dark, clear skies.

To increase your chances of seeing the aurora borealis, you must head as far north as possible and, ideally in March – an optimum month for aurora spotting due to the long, dark nights.

All of which is how I found myself signing up for a shortened version of Viking's 12-night ‘In search of the Northern Lights’ itinerary onboard Viking Venus.

Our first day was spent in Bergen, an ancient city with deep Viking roots that’s nestled between gargantuan snow-capped mountains, magnificent fords, and one of Europe’s largest glaciers.

On an included walking tour, we learned a little more about Norway’s second-largest city – a beguiling place of brightly painted timber-fronted houses which, during the early Middle Ages, was the country's capital and a member of the Hanseatic League.

Two consecutive ‘scenic sailing’ days followed and, while I hadn’t been sure about spending so much time cooped up onboard, it wasn’t a hardship. Passenger numbers on Viking Venus hover around the 900 mark, rather than in the thousands, so the ship never felt crowded.

Turns out I relished the time at sea which permitted me to stop and savour Norway’s stirring landscapes from the deck; attend a lecture by Dr Sarah Yeomans, Viking’s resident historian; hunker down, hot chocolate in hand, in the Explorer’s Lounge where comfy sofas are draped in reindeer hides; browse a book about Shackleton (carefully chosen by Heywood Hill, booksellers to the Royal Family) in one of the cosy lounges; and check out the Nordic-themed spa with its complimentary steam room, sauna and snow grotto – meaning there’s no excuse not to embrace the traditional Scandinavian bathing ritual of hot and cold water therapies.

Then there’s the array of restaurants – all included in your fare as part of Viking’s all-inclusive offering.

I adored afternoon tea (expect the full panoply of elegant teapots, fluffy scones and extravagant cakes) in the light-filled Wintergarden, The Chef’s Table – an experience that combines a cooking demonstration with dinner – excellent Manfredi’s Italian Grill, and the main dining venue, The Restaurant, where the emphasis is on regional cuisine using locally sourced ingredients.

And if you’re anxious about the thought of missing the aurora borealis while dining, put the panic on hold: Howard Parkin, Viking’s resident astronomer, and indeed the whole Viking team are permanently on watch ready to announce sightings over the PA.

Elsewhere a channel on the TV in your stateroom lets you know, via an alarm, when the aurora deigns to make an appearance.

It was while sitting down to dinner at The Restaurant, on our fourth night nearing the northerly city of Alta – also known as the City of Northern Lights – that a cry suddenly rang out: “The aurora!”

Orders instantly forgotten, we collectively grabbed coats and rushed out onto the icy decks – minus 16 temperatures be damned.

The night sky was dancing the light fantastic; swirling rivers of green, blue, white and various shades of red ​​green, pink, shades of red, yellow and darted over the horizon. And Howard was on hand to explain the spectacle, and offer photography tips.

Howard reckoned he has seen the spectacular astronomical display at least a dozen times but said it never gets old: every night is different.

For almost a whole hour, the whole ship seemed to be out on deck looking skywards. As the dazzling show diminished, then dissolved, a collective sigh went up and we wandered back indoors – content that we had witnessed the aurora which has captivated people for millennia.

But while the Northern Lights are the undoubted star of the sailing, Viking offers an array of exciting excursions – with one included at every stop – to mitigate disappointment should the phenomenon fail to appear, while also allowing guests to experience local culture and traditions.

In Alta, I opted to hunt for the aurora on a snowmobile through snow-deep valleys and also signed up for a classic Nordic skiing session – think of it as skiing but without the lifts, queues, or crowds – against a backdrop of a winter landscape of almost clichéd beauty.

However, if you’re after a gentler alternative, explore Alta – home to the Unesco-listed Alta Museum and the distinctive Northern Lights Cathedral with a knowledgeable Viking guide.

Our final stop was the lively university town of Tromso – it has more pubs per capita than any other Norwegian town. But if Tromsø is known for its nightlife, it is also celebrated for its outdoor activities.

Here I had the opportunity to ride behind a team of huskies, the land of snow and silence broken only by the sound of the overexcited canines’ communal howl.

It was an extraordinary afternoon excursion in every sense, and well worth putting up with the kind of subzero temperatures that cause teeth to chatter.

Back on the ship, we were handed steaming cups of hot chocolate and mulled wine by Viking’s small army of smiling staff to warm up.

I retreated to my stateroom, with its private balcony and bathroom with underfloor heating, to shed layers and relax for a few hours.

Then it was time to wrap up once more and disembark for our final excursion: snowshoeing, a common activity in Scandinavian countries, atop Fjellheisen mountain.

After strapping on a pair of snowshoes (which look something like a pair of 1970s wooden tennis rackets), a qualified guide led us crunching into deep virgin snow that would otherwise have been inaccessible.

Just as I was thinking that nothing could have made this exhilarating outing any better, the Northern Lights began their heart-stopping display, filling the sky with colour – and cementing an unforgettable cruise.

My only complaint about this pinch-me experience? After such a luxurious voyage, the flight home, followed by the Gatwick Express back to my shoebox–sized London flat, felt like the rudest of awakenings.

Get on board A 12-night ‘In search of the Northern Lights’ itinerary aboard Viking Venus departs from London Tilbury on March 12, 2024, and includes stops in Amsterdam, Narvik, Tromso, Alta, and Bergen. From £4,340 per person including flights, meals, gratuities, and an included excursion in each port of call. (0800 319 66 60; vikingcruises.co.uk)
Fast facts930 passengers
2021, year built
465 crew
14 decks
2 pools
£4,040 average cost of a 13-day ‘In search of the Northern Lights’ cruise

MY VERDICTGreat for: Anyone who isn’t convinced about cruising. Viking’s selling point is its Scandi design and itineraries emphasising cultural enrichment.