What a difference a year makes onboard MSV Virtuosa

After being chased by zombies in a terrifying 4D virtual reality experience in the games arcade on MSC Virtuosa, it’s a relief to retreat to the Yacht Club for afternoon tea with champagne to calm my nerves.

It’s the first time I have stayed in the Yacht Club, a ‘ship within the ship’ on three upper foredecks and, frankly, there’s no going back.

I get the exclusive atmosphere of a private club and yet there’s a raft of entertainment across the ship, all just a few steps away down a Swarovski crystal staircase.

There’s also exclusive access to an à la carte restaurant and the peaceful Top Sail Lounge, both with uninterrupted sea views, as well as a pool area with cabanas and whirlpool baths alongside an al fresco bar and grill.

My 29m2 deluxe suite with 24-hour butler service is twice the size of an average balcony cabin. Drinks are unlimited and the minibar is stocked with my favourite tipples. A memory foam mattress, Egyptian cotton sheets and a choice of pillows add to the comfort, and the marble-clad bathroom has a super-efficient walk-in shower.

Best of all, though, is the early check-in, with a butler on hand to take my case to the suite and vice-versa on departure for easy disembarkation – don’t underestimate that privilege!

I admit to holding a soft spot for MSC Virtuosa; we have history. I was on her maiden sailing after the pandemic and now on her first 2022 sailing from the new Horizon Terminal, in Southampton, where she is home-porting this summer.

Not only that, on this trip she is the first ship with British passengers to call into Guernsey after a two-year pause in the island’s cruise schedule. So she is back doing what she does best – giving fun-loving passengers a chance to party and explore.

I’ve only got two nights on this mini-cruise to St Peter Port and, like everyone else on this ship, I’m making each minute count. Forget bedtime – at 11pm the Galleria is starting to rock.

The DJ and dance team, in hippie-style 60s costumes, are whipping up a party mood with friends and families, hen and stag parties, all singing and dancing to disco favourites from YMCA and Twist and Shout to Footloose and Saturday Night Fever – letting their hair down in this long promenade under an illuminated dome.

Up on the balcony those who prefer to dine or drink in the Masters of the Seas pub (which serves decent beers and lagers) find themselves caught up in the music so we have a two-deck party going on, while other venues are also warming up with live music in Sky Lounge and glitzy atrium.

The atmosphere is electric, with passengers fully appreciating the chance to travel again. But despite the numbers it’s a relaxed, friendly ship – people chat and pass the time of day in the lift, on their way to dinner, at the bar. It’s lovely.

It helps, too, that we all know we’re in a safe environment. Every one of the 3,000 passengers (we are sailing half-full) has had to show their NHS covid pass and take a PCR or antigen test within 48 hours of boarding.

Although the crew still wear masks, passengers have the option to dispense with them so we are all appreciating a cruising experience that is, at last, pretty near to normal.

After the late party, there’s hardly anyone about to board the first tender over to Guernsey next morning, so I am the first to be welcomed by the island’s enthusiastic team of greeters.

Isabel de Menezes, Visit Guernsey’s pier manager, is among them, ready to help passengers with directions into town and inspiring them with an impressive range of restaurant, beach and activity options.

Two shiny new tuk-tuks are on the quayside so I jump in for an hour’s tour of the island. Owner-driver Tim Bean tells me he bought the shiny Italian-built three-wheelers, complete with cream leather seats, just weeks before the pandemic.

"It’s been a disaster,’ he says honestly. "But today’s the day we hope to see a
real turnaround."

It’s great fun waving to everyone as we drive along the lanes, and Tim’s so excited that his commentary is almost breathless. We pass Hauteville House where French writer Victor Hugo was exiled, the World War II underground hospital, stop off at Jerbourg Beach and pass the pub where Sir Elton John played an impromptu performance before stopping at pretty Fermain Beach for coffee.

A quick trip to Herm
The car-free island of Herm is a 15-minute boat ride from St Peter Port so Tim drops me off to board the Trident ferry alongside walkers with dogs, fishermen with rods and families laden with camping gear.

Herm is a mile and a half long and half a mile wide with 65 residents, one hotel and one pub. It is so small that you can walk around the coastline in two hours, along grassy paths edged with bluebells, primroses, foxgloves, sea rocket, campion, wild leeks and thyme.

It’s the prettiest sight, as if a painter has flicked their brush and splattered everything yellow, blue and pink.

I pass sandy Shell Beach and Belvoir Beach, both with cafes on the sand, but opt instead for a local organic Wheadon’s gin at the Mermaid Inn while waiting to board the 2.30pm return boat.

At the cruise pier I see Tim and his tuk-tuk arrive back with more MSC passengers – his 14th ride of the day. "That’s 14 more than last year and 14 more than the year before that," he smiles.

Isabel de Menezes is also beaming. "Everything has gone so smoothly," she says. "Our greeters have been helping passengers with directions into the town and recommending places to visit.

On their return we’re hearing how much they’ve loved the island – and that they want to come back."

After a busy day I take advantage of the Yacht Club’s complimentary access to the Thermal Suite in the Aurea Spa. Then, after a warm-up in the Mediterranean steam bath, a wallow in the hydropool, a nip in the snow and ice experience and a lazy lie down in the relaxation room I start to feel peckish.

While there are 10 dining venues, including my favourite cabaret-style show cooking in Kaito Teppanyaki, I am comfortable dining in the Yacht Club before watching a show.

I take a seat in the Carousel Lounge to watch Arkymea, the story of a crazy scientist in search of a hidden world. There’s not much of a plot but no matter, because the cast of superhuman acrobats, jugglers and dancers put on entertainment that defies all gravity.

Full marks to choreographer Alberto Sperduto and the costume design and props team – it’s genius and more than worth the £15 ticket which includes a seat and signature cocktail.

It’s late and I need to pack but I’m not done yet because there’s still time for a time trial on the F1 racing car simulator in the Sportplex. MSC Cruises is now an F1 global partner so I fancy myself being on track to be picked out as the new Lewis Hamilton. I am still waiting to hear…

Get on board
A two-night ‘Guernsey’ cruise, roundtrip from Southampton to St Peter Port abord MSC Virtuosa, departs August 25, 2022 and costs from £279. msccruises.co.uk