Ship review: Sylvia Earle

Launched in 2022, Sylvia Earle looks and feels new. The eight-deck AE Expeditions’ ship has capacity for 130 passengers, so by the end of my North West Passage voyage, World of Cruising was on first-name terms with several guests.

Like most guests, World of Cruising spent most of our time on deck five – home to a lounge bar, Tektite; another lounge with screens that doubled up as a lecture theatre; a citizen science centre; the main restaurant, Gentoo; shop and reception.

Style & character: 5/5

Plush carpets, velvet armchairs and a grand piano in the backlit bar set the scene for a luxurious cruise.

Expedition photography depicting polar bears, penguins and icebergs line Sylvia Earle’s corridors, communal areas and staterooms (cabins). It was hard to pick a favourite, but one that stays in my mind showed an Inuit woman holding a sign saying, ‘Indigenous rights are human rights.’

The library had an extensive book collection, as well as board games, computers, a globe and antiques.

Cabins: 5/5

Most cabins are on decks four and six, with a handful of superior suites on deck seven.

World of Cruising was in cabin 627, a Balcony stateroom category C. The bathroom’s large mirror, generous-sized shower and shelves for toiletries made it feel spacious.

There were plenty of wardrobes, too. My friend and I could walk around both twin beds, sit at a desk or relax on a sofa. Our balcony didn’t have chairs which we didn’t miss. Its glass barrier meant I could watch the waves from the bed through the sliding doors.

Food & drink: 3.5/10

The buffet breakfast in Gentoo was varied and of excellent quality. We could choose from muesli with fruit, nuts and yoghurt; cheese and charcuterie; eggs prepared to our liking; a cooked breakfast; porridge, toast and pastries.

Lunch was also a buffet with a wide choice in Gentoo, while dinner was served a la carte in Gentoo or Rockhopper if you reserved it on the day.

We especially enjoyed the pasta and fish dishes but there were a few misses, notably some dry desserts and sushi prepared with green food colouring.

Rockhopper, on the eighth deck, is the ship’s speciality restaurant. It specialises in steak but its menu never changes so there were limited options for diners with special diets like ourselves.

There was usually a cocktail offer each evening.

Service & facilities: 5/5

Our housekeeper was so smiley and had a knack for remembering our name (how do they do that?). The expedition team (who were mostly in their 20s, 30s and 40s) were funny and knowledgeable and each one had a speciality such as geology, history or photography.

The expedition leader was faultless – cheeky at times, always courteous, and serious when he needed to be, like when discussing safety protocol and responsible travel ethics such as reminding us to ask before taking a local’s photo and to back off if they hesitate.

The sundeck had a heated floor. The pool was mostly out of use on our trip, but we had a dip in one of the al fresco hot tubs, admired sea views from the sauna, and used the cross trainer and running machine in the gym.

Entertainment & excursions: 3.5/5

One expedition team member was a guitarist, so he entertained us in Tektite for a few nights and took requests. There was also a quiz, a polar plunge and a fascinating documentary about a hamlet we visited.

Entertainment was mostly limited to lectures though. There was one on plankton which, admittedly, we skipped, and three dedicated to the explorer John Franklin which felt a bit much. But we enjoyed learning about Inuit culture and language and other Western explorers who attempted to navigate the North West Passage in Arctic Canada from the 1400s to the 1900s.

Our excursions were a mix of Inuit towns and hamlets, walks on remote islands and Zodiac tours, plus a day exploring the Unesco world heritage site of Ilulissat – a glacier with icebergs the size of houses. Seeing colourful houses on stilts and hundreds of working husky dogs gave us an insight into the way of life in west Greenland, while in Pond Inlet, Canada, we listened to traditional throat singing.

On any expedition, weather and safety considerations dictate the daily excursions, so on foggy days we couldn’t disembark in case of prowling polar bears. We saw six polar bears, two seals and a handful of whale tails from a distance. We were grateful to the expedition team for handing out binoculars.

Value for money: 3.5/5

International flights and kayaking are extra. It was a shame it wasn’t an option to pay less and kayak once or twice instead of having to commit to kayaking most days for £900.

But all entertainment, excursions, meals in both restaurants and wine, beers and soft drinks with dinner are included, as are a refillable bottle and stylish blue polar jacket with a padded detachable lining which you can keep. Charter flights that are part of the itinerary are also included.