An expert cruise guide to Portugal

It can’t be easy sharing a peninsula with effervescent Spain, but Portugal carries it off with serious aplomb, even a swish of Atlantic swagger. This western slice of Iberia boasts superb restaurants, wine and Caribbean-style beaches, while two of Europe’s greatest cities – Lisbon
and Porto – lift its attractions into the premier league. And that’s before you’ve even discovered the otherworldly charms of Madeira and the Azores, far out in the Atlantic ocean.

Fought over by Roman legionaries and Moorish warriors, alive with the extraordinary deeds of navigators who found sea routes to India, Africa and the Far East in the Age of Discovery, Portugal is a country whose history is writ large in the landscape. In this treasure trove of Unesco-listed castles, monasteries and palaces, even the smallest village has a story to tell.

METROPOLITAN MARVELS
The urban star in the north is Porto, one of Europe’s oldest cities, which is dramatically spread across twin bluffs on either side of the River Douro, itself one of the world’s great cruising routes.

This mighty waterway demands vaulting bridges, and in Porto the greatest of them all was conjured up by Gustave Eiffel – of tower fame – to connect the old-world Ribeira neighbourhood with the port houses in Vila Nova de Gaia. Richly deserving its status as a former European City of Culture, Porto feels like an open-air museum that is also thrillingly full of life.

Porto’s rival, Lisbon, shines in the south, every inch the majestic seat of an empire that once stretched from Brazil to Barbados, Mozambique to Macau. Spread over seven hills
on the banks of the River Tagus (or eight, depending on who you ask) the Portuguese capital’s lifeblood has always been its wide river and the access to the Atlantic it provides. Funiculars soar, ferries bob, old-timer trams trundle and life-affirming elevadors – lifts to viewing galleries – bring whoops of joy in what feels like a playground for adults.

Alexandre Silva, chef of Michelin- starred restaurant Loco, says, “Lisbon is a fantastic melting pot of cultures. Here we have the whole world in one street – flavours, colours and aromas – which creates a distinct identity.”

Lisbon owes much of its appearance to the catastrophic earthquake of 1755 and the wholesale reconstruction that followed. Colonial-era buildings impress, together with districts
such as Alfama, with its tumbledown vibe.

Traditional, fanciful Manueline architecture and glazed blue-and white azulejo tiles take the harshness off the glass-and-steel modernity of the newer developments in a city on the up.

THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH
Pushing south across the River Tagus and the half-abandoned Alentejo region, Portugal’s south coast beckons.

Here on the sparkling Algarve, year- round balmy temperatures please golfers enjoying championship courses set in fully-fledged resorts. This holiday hotspot makes the most of its myriad beaches and hideaway coves but the Algarve is also a winner on the plate,

its foodie renaissance crowned in February 2024 when Michelin held the first dedicated Portuguese awards ceremony here.

Local head chef Louis Anjos, of the Michelin-starred Al Sud restaurant, is passionate about provenance.“ We have such great riches,” he says. “I forage for clams and visit Sagres market; you can’t find better seafood anywhere in the world. The Algarve and Portugal deserve recognition for the work we are doing in bringing great food to your plate.”

ISLANDS IN THE SUN
Steaming south – away from Europe – the island of Madeira looms out of the cobalt Atlantic, an emerald leviathan draped in sub-tropical greenery thanks to its idyllic climate. Daytime temperatures rarely dip below 15C, even in winter.

Think Jurassic Park rather than theme park. No wonder Winston Churchill was a fan – he enjoyed sojourns in the sleepy village of Camara de Lobos, painting fishing boats with a glass of local rum poncha in one hand.

But the ‘Garden of the Atlantic’ offers more than cocktails and climate. Tuck in, too, to golf, fishing, climbing and walking beside the famous levada irrigation channels.

Portugal’s last stand out west is the Azores archipelago, an off-the-beaten- track Atlantic outpost that unfurls its lushness across nine vastly different outcrops in the most westerly reaches of Macaronesia.

Settled as recently as the 15th century, the islands are a surreal sight. Imagine Yorkshire on
a volcano and you’re on the right track. Dry stone walls separate fields dotted with cows whose milk makes the islands’ fabulous cheese – yet this is also one of the few places in Europe where tea is still grown commercially, and it’s home to Portugal’s highest mountain, the 2,351m Pico.

Walking guide João Soares says, “Ah Pico, ‘the Peak’. Our mountain dominates the Azores, climbing out of the Atlantic like Godzilla. You never forget it, whether you are hiking it, flying over it or going by on a cruise ship.”

The Azores are also a haven for wildlife. Hunker down in silence and await a flash of grey skin, then a glistening fin. Finally a giant sperm whale breaches the surface – thankfully in perfect safety, now that Canons and Nikons have replaced harpoons.

Rich in nutrients, these waters harbour over a quarter of the world’s whale species. But whale watching is just one of the joys of a country that offers such rich charms on Iberia and far beyond, deep into the Atlantic blue.

No wonder Winston Churchill was a fan – he enjoyed sojourns in the sleepy village of Camarade Lobos, painting fishing boats with a glass of local rum poncha in one hand. But the ‘Garden of the Atlantic’ offers more than cocktails and climate. Tuck in, too, to golf, fishing, climbing and walking beside the famous levada irrigation channels.

Portugal’s last stand out west is the Azores archipelago, an off-the-beaten-track Atlantic outpost that unfurls its lushness across nine vastly different outcrops in the most westerly reaches of Macaronesia.

Settled as recently as the 15th century, the islands are a surreal sight. Imagine Yorkshire on
a volcano and you’re on the right track. Dry stone walls separate fields dotted with cows whose milk makes the islands’ fabulous cheese – yet this is also one of the few places in Europe where tea is still grown commercially, and it’s home to Portugal’s highest mountain, the 2,351m Pico.

Walking guide João Soares says: “Ah Pico, ‘the Peak’. Our mountain dominates the Azores, climbing out of the Atlantic like Godzilla. You never forget it, whether you are hiking it, flying over it or going by on a cruise ship.”

The Azores are also a haven for wildlife. Hunker down in silence and await a flash of grey skin, then a glistening fin. Finally a giant sperm whale breaches the surface – thankfully in perfect safety, now that Canons and Nikons have replaced harpoons.

Rich in nutrients, these waters harbour over a quarter of the world’s whale species. But whale watching is just one of the joys of a country that offers such rich charms on Iberia and far beyond, deep into the Atlantic blue.

WHO SAILS THERE?
Celebrity Cruises, Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, MSC Cruises, Norwegian Cruise Line, P&O Cruises, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas Cruises and Viking all visit Portugal year-round but most frequently in summer, while the River Douro is the big inland draw from spring to autumn.

Ocean cruises to the Canary Islands are most popular in winter, with Lisbon being a classic embarkation point. Madeira and the Azores are also popular transatlantic stops. Weather- wise, the best time to visit Portugal is May to October, though Lisbon and the Algarve stay warm throughout winter.

GET ON BOARD
Viking's nine-night River of Gold Douro cruise aboard Viking Torgil, from Lisbon to Porto via Regua, Pinhao, Barca d’Alva and Salamanca, departs on July 3, 2024, from £3,995 per person including flights.

P&O Cruises’ 14-night Spain, Portugal and Canary Islands cruise aboard Ventura, return from Southampton via Madeira, La Palma, Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, Cadiz and Lisbon, departs on 5 October 2024, from £1,029 per person.