An expert cruise guide to Portugal
Portugal more than holds its own with Spain
on the Iberian Peninsula. Come for its epic
beaches, wealth of wildlife and otherworldly
islands, and linger over world-class food in historic cities
It can’t be easy sharing a peninsula with effervescent Spain, but Portugal carries it off with serious aplomb, even a swish of Atlantic swagger. This western slice of Iberia boasts superb restaurants, wine and Caribbean-style beaches, while two of Europe’s greatest cities – Lisbon
and Porto – lift its attractions into the premier league. And that’s before you’ve even discovered the otherworldly
charms of Madeira and the Azores, far out in the Atlantic ocean.
Fought over by Roman legionaries and Moorish warriors, alive with the extraordinary deeds of navigators who found sea routes to India, Africa and the Far East in the Age of Discovery, Portugal is a country whose history is writ large in the landscape. In this treasure
trove of Unesco-listed castles, monasteries and palaces, even the
smallest village has a story to tell.
METROPOLITAN MARVELSThe urban star in the north is Porto, one of Europe’s oldest cities, which is dramatically spread across twin bluffs on either side of the River Douro, itself one of the world’s great cruising routes.
This mighty waterway demands vaulting bridges, and in Porto the greatest of them all was conjured up by Gustave Eiffel – of tower fame – to connect the old-world Ribeira neighbourhood with the port houses in Vila Nova de Gaia. Richly deserving its status as a former European City of Culture, Porto feels like an open-air museum that is also thrillingly full of life.
Porto’s rival, Lisbon, shines in the
south, every inch the majestic seat of
an empire that once stretched from
Brazil to Barbados, Mozambique to Macau. Spread over seven hills
on the banks of the River Tagus (or
eight, depending on who you ask) the Portuguese capital’s lifeblood has always been its wide river and the access to the Atlantic it provides.
Funiculars soar, ferries bob, old-timer
trams trundle and life-affirming
elevadors – lifts to viewing galleries –
bring whoops of joy in what feels like
a playground for adults.
Alexandre Silva, chef of Michelin- starred restaurant Loco, says, “Lisbon is a fantastic melting pot of cultures. Here we have the whole world in one street – flavours, colours and aromas – which creates a distinct identity.”
Lisbon owes much of its appearance
to the catastrophic earthquake of 1755
and the wholesale reconstruction
that followed. Colonial-era buildings
impress, together with districts
such as Alfama, with its tumbledown
vibe.
Traditional, fanciful Manueline
architecture and glazed blue-and white azulejo tiles take the harshness
off the glass-and-steel modernity of the
newer developments in a city on the up.
THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTHPushing south across the River Tagus and the half-abandoned Alentejo region, Portugal’s south coast beckons.
Here on the sparkling Algarve, year- round balmy temperatures please golfers enjoying championship courses set in fully-fledged resorts. This holiday hotspot makes the most of its myriad beaches and hideaway coves but the Algarve is also a winner on the plate,
its foodie renaissance crowned in February 2024 when Michelin held the first dedicated Portuguese awards ceremony here.
Local head chef Louis Anjos, of the Michelin-starred Al Sud restaurant, is passionate about provenance.“ We have such great riches,” he says. “I forage for clams and visit Sagres market; you can’t find better seafood anywhere in the world. The Algarve and Portugal deserve recognition for the work we are doing in bringing great food to your plate.”
Find your ideal cruise
Search for the best cruises to Portugal
ISLANDS IN THE SUNSteaming south – away from Europe –
the island of Madeira looms out of the
cobalt Atlantic, an emerald leviathan
draped in sub-tropical greenery
thanks to its idyllic climate. Daytime
temperatures rarely dip below 15C,
even in winter.
Think Jurassic Park
rather than theme park. No wonder
Winston Churchill was a fan – he
enjoyed sojourns in the sleepy village of Camara de Lobos, painting
fishing boats with a glass of local rum
poncha in one hand.
But the ‘Garden of
the Atlantic’ offers more than cocktails
and climate. Tuck in, too, to golf,
fishing, climbing and walking beside
the famous levada irrigation channels.
Portugal’s last stand out west is the
Azores archipelago, an off-the-beaten-
track Atlantic outpost that unfurls its
lushness across nine vastly different
outcrops in the most westerly reaches
of Macaronesia.
Settled as recently
as the 15th century, the islands are a
surreal sight. Imagine Yorkshire on
a volcano and you’re on the right
track. Dry stone walls separate fields
dotted with cows whose milk makes
the islands’ fabulous cheese – yet this
is also one of the few places in Europe
where tea is still grown commercially,
and it’s home to Portugal’s highest
mountain, the 2,351m Pico.
Walking guide João Soares says, “Ah Pico, ‘the Peak’. Our mountain dominates the Azores, climbing out of the Atlantic like Godzilla. You never forget it, whether you are hiking it, flying over it or going by on a cruise ship.”
The Azores are also a haven for wildlife. Hunker down in silence and await a flash of grey skin, then a glistening fin. Finally a giant sperm whale breaches the surface – thankfully in perfect safety, now that Canons and Nikons have replaced harpoons.
Rich in nutrients, these waters harbour over a quarter of the world’s whale species. But whale watching is just one of the joys of a country that offers such rich charms on Iberia and far beyond, deep into the Atlantic blue.
No wonder
Winston Churchill was a fan – he
enjoyed sojourns in the sleepy village of Camarade Lobos, painting
fishing boats with a glass of local rum
poncha in one hand. But the ‘Garden of
the Atlantic’ offers more than cocktails
and climate. Tuck in, too, to golf,
fishing, climbing and walking beside
the famous levada irrigation channels.
Portugal’s last stand out west is the
Azores archipelago, an off-the-beaten-track Atlantic outpost that unfurls its
lushness across nine vastly different
outcrops in the most westerly reaches
of Macaronesia.
Settled as recently
as the 15th century, the islands are a
surreal sight. Imagine Yorkshire on
a volcano and you’re on the right
track. Dry stone walls separate fields
dotted with cows whose milk makes
the islands’ fabulous cheese – yet this
is also one of the few places in Europe
where tea is still grown commercially,
and it’s home to Portugal’s highest
mountain, the 2,351m Pico.
Walking guide João Soares says: “Ah Pico, ‘the Peak’. Our mountain
dominates the Azores, climbing
out of the Atlantic like Godzilla.
You never forget it, whether you are
hiking it, flying over it or going by
on a cruise ship.”
The Azores are also a haven for wildlife. Hunker down in silence and await a flash of grey skin, then a glistening fin. Finally a giant sperm whale breaches the surface – thankfully in perfect safety, now that Canons and Nikons have replaced harpoons.
Rich in nutrients, these waters harbour over a quarter of the world’s whale species. But whale watching is just one of the joys of a country that offers such rich charms on Iberia and far beyond, deep into the Atlantic blue.
WHO SAILS
THERE?
Celebrity Cruises, Fred Olsen
Cruise Lines, MSC Cruises,
Norwegian Cruise Line, P&O
Cruises, Princess Cruises,
Regent Seven Seas Cruises
and Viking all visit Portugal
year-round but most frequently
in summer, while the River
Douro is the big inland draw
from spring to autumn.
Ocean
cruises to the Canary Islands
are most popular in winter,
with Lisbon being a classic
embarkation point. Madeira
and the Azores are also popular
transatlantic stops. Weather-
wise, the best time to visit
Portugal is May to October,
though Lisbon and the Algarve
stay warm throughout winter.
GET ON BOARD
Viking's nine-night River of Gold Douro cruise aboard Viking Torgil, from Lisbon to Porto via Regua, Pinhao, Barca d’Alva and Salamanca, departs on July 3, 2024, from £3,995 per person including flights.
P&O Cruises’ 14-night Spain, Portugal and Canary Islands cruise aboard Ventura, return from Southampton via Madeira, La Palma, Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, Cadiz and Lisbon, departs on 5 October 2024, from £1,029 per person.
