An expert cruise port guide to Valletta

Malta may be one of Europe’s smallest nations but its capital Valletta packs a punch, hewn in stone half a millennium ago by the Knights Hospitaller – a religious military society also known as the Order of St John.

Everyone from the Phoenicians and Romans to the Greeks and the British have breezed through this strategic Mediterranean bolthole, all leaving indelible traces. No wonder Valletta is eulogised on Unesco’s world heritage list.

This fortress city’s formidable walls are arguably the Mediterranean’s most dramatic, and undoubtedly the star of Malta’s Grand Harbour.

From here, a warren of narrow streets snakes inland, lined with graceful stone buildings sporting charming balconies.

Nothing keeps Valletta down. In the Second World War, Malta made a brave stand against the might of the German air force, and today locals celebrate their freedom in pavement cafés, church-lined squares and restaurants bursting with Maltese delicacies.

Myriad possibilities tempt the visitor, whether it’s kayaking across the harbour, delving into a museum or savouring flaky pastizzi in the sunshine.

THREE UNMISSABLE THINGS TO DO

Valletta's City Walls
Hiking up and around Valletta’s hulking fortifications is essential. Start at the main gate, where the views instantly catch your breath.

Chunky bastions, ornate churches and surprisingly sleepy parks accompany the dramatic vistas of the harbour and bustling suburbs, some of which are like miniature cities in their own right.

The Knights Hospitaller wrought these walls from the local limestone in the 16th century so they are inexorably bound into Valletta’s history. As such they are cherished, preserved and
in remarkable condition.

Sail on a dhasjsa boat
Traditional gondola-style dghajsa boats are the ideal way to explore the Grand Harbour and drift back through time to the days of the mysterious Knights Hospitaller, who commissioned the original vessels for travel between Valletta and the fortified harbourside villages of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, known as the Three Cities.

From the water you soon realise how formidable Valletta would have been to potential attackers, and how popular it is with the owners of luxury yachts today.

Dghajsas are easy to hire, and there is a flotilla of more modern vessels for longer sightseeing trips.

St John's Cathedral
Its façade may be relatively austere but enter Valletta’s most striking building and you’ll discover just how rich the Knights Hospitaller were.

Inside, St John’s Cathedral is a riot of Baroque extravagance, with ornate sculptures and figures adorning its chapels and yet more art treasures in its museum.

The great 19th century Scottish writer and historian Sir Walter Scott acclaimed it “a magnificent church, the most striking interior I’ve ever seen”.

THREE ACTIVITIES FOR REPEAT VISITORS

Off-beat
Experience Valletta’s nefarious side with ex-BBC journalist and tour guide Mario Cacciottolo, who runs Dark Malta Tours.

“Valletta is a city of ghosts and skeletons, halfway between Europe and Africa but not truly part of either, and our tours dig into the dark underbelly,” he explains.

Mario offers private tours with timings to suit cruise guests, and you can expect to be regaled with gloriously told tall tales of love, murder and even witchcraft.

Unique
Have you ever tried Maltese wine? Probably not, even if you consider yourself a wine buff, because the island has just 13 vineyards and very little of their produce escapes to the outside world.

But 4,000 years of practice must count for something, and just lately Maltese wines have been gaining serious international respect.

Most wineries are tiny and difficult to find but you can’t go wrong with a tasting at Ta’ Betta Wine Estates, which cultivates four hectares of terrace some 200m above sea level.Their blood red, peppery shiraz blend is a joy, as is their smoothly oaked chardonnay.

Outdoor
Tackling Malta’s Grand Harbour in a kayak is a thrilling way to see the sights and burn off a plate of pastizzi.

When you’re low down on the water, Valletta’s grandeur soars all around – no wonder it’s a favourite location for Hollywood.

Paddling beneath these vaulting fortifications, you’ll also understand why Napoleon expressed relief that he didn’t have to attack the city after he was allowed to take it with barely a scuffle in 1798.

FOUR ACTIVITIES FOR CURIOUS TRAVELLERS

Solo explorers
If you’re uncomfortable eating and drinking on your own, then head to Caffe Cordina on the pedestrianised part of Republic Street.

Going strong since the early 19th century, this local institution extends a warm welcome to everyone. It’s best known for the pastries baked on site, so order a Maltese honey ring, date-filled imqaret pastry or helwa tat tork, a crumbly, nutty dessert that’s popular throughout the Middle East.

If you want to make friends, this is a great place for meeting people. Alternatively you can just sit and watch the world go by in the heart of this enchanting city – the choice is yours.

Couples
Mdina is undoubtedly Malta’s most chocolate-box pretty city, making it ideal for a romantic day trip. Admire a mosaic-clad Roman mansion, then cross the mighty moat and walk straight into a film set from Game of Thrones – fans will recognise King’s Landing.

You can also clip-clop through the cobbled streets on a ramshackle horsedrawn cart, finishing up at the cathedral terrace for a bird’s eye view of the city. Time for lunch? Eat like the locals and treat yourselves to tender rice wrapped in vine leaves and falafel with salad sourced from the surrounding countryside.

Teenagers
Situated on the northwest coast, Golden Bay is the finest sandy beach on the Maltese mainland and only 20 minutes from Valletta by taxi.

Awarded a Blue Flag for its cleanliness and safety – lifeguards are on duty – this is definitely the place to come if you have teenagers looking to chill out, swim or snorkel, rather than trudge grumpily around more historic sites.

When you’re ready for lunch, opt for the café on the beach. There are also options further up the hill that let you take in the whole scene beneath you, which is framed by rocks and definitely one for the Insta-feed.

Multi-gen families
History can be a hard sell to younger members of the family – or those no longer so nimble on their feet – but the Malta Experience is a reliable crowd-pleaser.

With an engaging retro-chic style, this colourful audiovisual production tells quite a story, spicing up 7,000 years of Valletta’s history and condensing it into a breezy 45-minute running time.

Shown in a purpose-built auditorium every hour through the middle of the day, it’s also a good option if anyone’s finding the Mediterranean heat a little too much.

PLACES TO EAT

Budget
Don’t sail out of Valletta without trying the famous street food pastizzi. These moreish pastries are traditionally filled with lightly curried mushy peas or ricotta cheese, enclosed by a croissant- style crust of filo pastry.

But there are plenty of more exotic fillings, too, such as truffle and Maltese sausage, and you’ll find them all in bars and cafés across the city.

A hole in the wall on Merchants Street, near St John’s Cathedral, Manuela Malta Pastizzi bakes them fresh every morning – but be warned, you might discover that one isn’t enough.

Mid range
With the sun beaming down there is no better place for wining and dining than St George’s Square. Recline outdoors at Fifty Nine Republic by the Grandmaster’s Palace and you’ll eat like a king – or at least one of the Knights Hospitaller.

Sip Maltese wine and feast on oysters with an umami kick, perfectly seared scallops and immaculate beef Wellington, all prepared by Maria Sammut, who was voted best Maltese chef 2023 by the guide Wines and Restaurants of Malta. The outdoor terrace is a winner even after sundown, when patio heaters come out.

Premium
Soaring almost within touching distance of your table, you’d think Valletta’s massive fortifications would be the talking point at The Chophouse.

But no, it’s the food. Beef steaks are superbly succulent and the locally caught sea bass is perfectly complemented by a smoked fish emulsion and bonito flakes.

Chef David Micallef Sant says, “Maltese cooking is unique. We get influences from Europe, Africa and the Middle East. We are a meeting place for cuisines and you taste that on the plate.”

With time to linger, try some of the restaurant’s 300-plus wines, all stored in a humidity and temperature-controlled cave.

HOW TO TRAVEL RESPONSIBLY
Malta’s characterful but smoke- belching vintage buses are gone – to the regret of some but the benefit of the environment – and a fleet of 400 modern replacements now offers sustainable, efficient and affordable travel.

Head north through the Three Cities or check out the tourist hotspots of Sliema
– admiring the painted dome of Stella Maris Church – and St Julian’s, where Balluta Bay Beach beckons. Alternatively, leave the coast to explore the ancient city of Mdina.

TRIP PLANNER
In the middle of the Med, Malta makes an ideal stop between Greece and Italy. A typically Mediterranean climate means the island is hot in the summer and mild but wet in winter. Spring and autumn are great times to go, especially before the weather has warmed up at home.

GET ON BOARD
Swan Hellenic’s eight-night Secrets of Sicily cruise aboard SH Diana, return from Palermo via Trapani, Mazara del Vallo, Porto Empedocle, Valletta, Siracusa, Taormina and Lipari, departs on August 20, 2024. Fares from £4,680 per person.

Viking’s 15-night Malta, Morocco & the Mediterranean cruise onboard Viking Saturn, return from Barcelona via Marseille, Ajaccio, Rome (Civitavecchia), Valletta, Tunis, Algiers, Casablanca, Seville and Malaga, departs January 20, 2025. Fares from £6,290 per person including flights.

LOCAL INSIGHT
Start your day at Lot 61, a coffee shop with fantastic blends, then visit Mysterium Fidei Museum at St Catherine’s monastery, which was closed to the public for 400 years. For photos, appreciate our Grand Harbour from Upper Barrakka Gardens.
Mario Cacciottolo, Owner and guide, Dark Malta Tours

“For quiet drinks, go to Ġugar, a tiny, hip and laidback bar. Gourmet Café has the best coffee. For lunch, try Elia Greek Cuisine, which serves filling salads, or go to ImPasta for a good plate of tagliatelle.”
James Vella Clark, artist

“With 320 monuments packed into just half a square kilometre, Valletta is one of the world’s most densely historic areas. Just enjoy walking the streets of the world’s most beautiful capital.”
Petra Van Der Boom, guide, City Walking Tours Malta