An expert cruise port guide to Valletta
Walk among the ghosts of the mysterious Knights Hospitaller
and admire one of Europe’s great harbours as you explore this
Unesco world heritage city, says Robin McKelvie
Malta may be one of
Europe’s smallest nations
but its capital Valletta
packs a punch, hewn in
stone half a millennium ago by the Knights
Hospitaller – a religious military society
also known as the Order of St John.
Everyone from the Phoenicians and
Romans to the Greeks and the British
have breezed through this strategic
Mediterranean bolthole, all leaving
indelible traces. No wonder Valletta is
eulogised on Unesco’s world heritage list.
This fortress city’s formidable walls
are arguably the Mediterranean’s most
dramatic, and undoubtedly the star of
Malta’s Grand Harbour.
From here, a
warren of narrow streets snakes inland,
lined with graceful stone buildings
sporting charming balconies.
Nothing keeps Valletta down. In the
Second World War, Malta made a brave stand against the might of the German
air force, and today locals celebrate
their freedom in pavement cafés,
church-lined squares and restaurants
bursting with Maltese delicacies.
Myriad possibilities tempt the visitor,
whether it’s kayaking across the
harbour, delving into a museum or
savouring flaky pastizzi in the sunshine.
THREE UNMISSABLE THINGS TO DO
Valletta's City WallsHiking up and around Valletta’s
hulking fortifications is essential. Start
at the main gate, where the views
instantly catch your breath.
Chunky
bastions, ornate churches and
surprisingly sleepy parks accompany
the dramatic vistas of the harbour and
bustling suburbs, some of which are
like miniature cities in their own right.
The Knights Hospitaller wrought these
walls from the local limestone in the
16th century so they are inexorably
bound into Valletta’s history. As such
they are cherished, preserved and
in remarkable condition.
Sail on a dhasjsa boatTraditional gondola-style dghajsa
boats are the ideal way to explore the
Grand Harbour and drift back through
time to the days of the mysterious
Knights Hospitaller, who commissioned the original vessels for travel between
Valletta and the fortified harbourside
villages of Vittoriosa, Senglea and
Cospicua, known as the Three Cities.
From the water you soon realise how
formidable Valletta would have been to potential attackers, and how popular
it is with the owners of luxury yachts
today.
Dghajsas are easy to hire, and
there is a flotilla of more modern vessels
for longer sightseeing trips.
St John's Cathedral
Its façade may be relatively austere but enter Valletta’s most striking building
and you’ll discover just how rich the
Knights Hospitaller were.
Inside, St
John’s Cathedral is a riot of Baroque
extravagance, with ornate sculptures
and figures adorning its chapels and
yet more art treasures in its museum.
The great 19th century Scottish writer
and historian Sir Walter Scott acclaimed
it “a magnificent church, the most
striking interior I’ve ever seen”.
THREE ACTIVITIES FOR REPEAT VISITORS
Off-beatExperience Valletta’s nefarious side
with ex-BBC journalist and tour guide
Mario Cacciottolo, who runs Dark Malta
Tours.
“Valletta is a city of ghosts and
skeletons, halfway between Europe and
Africa but not truly part of either, and
our tours dig into the dark underbelly,”
he explains.
Mario offers private tours
with timings to suit cruise guests, and
you can expect to be regaled with
gloriously told tall tales of love, murder
and even witchcraft.
Unique
Have you ever tried Maltese wine?
Probably not, even if you consider
yourself a wine buff, because the island
has just 13 vineyards and very little of
their produce escapes to the outside
world.
But 4,000 years of practice
must count for something, and just
lately Maltese wines have been gaining
serious international respect.
Most
wineries are tiny and difficult to find
but you can’t go wrong with a tasting at
Ta’ Betta Wine Estates, which cultivates
four hectares of terrace some 200m
above sea level.Their blood red,
peppery shiraz blend is a joy, as is their
smoothly oaked chardonnay.
Outdoor
Tackling Malta’s Grand Harbour in a kayak is a thrilling way to see the
sights and burn off a plate of pastizzi.
When you’re low down on the water,
Valletta’s grandeur soars all around –
no wonder it’s a favourite location for
Hollywood.
Paddling beneath these
vaulting fortifications, you’ll also
understand why Napoleon expressed
relief that he didn’t have to attack the city after he was allowed to take
it with barely a scuffle in 1798.
FOUR ACTIVITIES FOR CURIOUS TRAVELLERS
Solo explorersIf you’re uncomfortable eating and
drinking on your own, then head to
Caffe Cordina on the pedestrianised
part of Republic Street.
Going strong
since the early 19th century, this local
institution extends a warm welcome to
everyone. It’s best known for the pastries
baked on site, so order a Maltese honey
ring, date-filled imqaret pastry or helwa
tat tork, a crumbly, nutty dessert that’s
popular throughout the Middle East.
If
you want to make friends, this is a great
place for meeting people. Alternatively
you can just sit and watch the world go
by in the heart of this enchanting city – the choice is yours.
CouplesMdina is undoubtedly Malta’s most
chocolate-box pretty city, making it
ideal for a romantic day trip. Admire a mosaic-clad Roman mansion, then
cross the mighty moat and walk straight
into a film set from Game of Thrones – fans will recognise King’s Landing.
You can also clip-clop through the
cobbled streets on a ramshackle
horsedrawn cart, finishing up at the
cathedral terrace for a bird’s eye view
of the city. Time for lunch? Eat like
the locals and treat yourselves to
tender rice wrapped in vine leaves
and falafel with salad sourced from
the surrounding countryside.
TeenagersSituated on the northwest coast,
Golden Bay is the finest sandy beach
on the Maltese mainland and only 20 minutes from Valletta by taxi.
Awarded a Blue Flag for its cleanliness
and safety – lifeguards are on duty –
this is definitely the place to come if
you have teenagers looking to chill out,
swim or snorkel, rather than trudge
grumpily around more historic sites.
When you’re ready for lunch, opt for
the café on the beach. There are also
options further up the hill that let you
take in the whole scene beneath you,
which is framed by rocks and definitely
one for the Insta-feed.
Multi-gen families
History can be a hard sell to younger
members of the family – or those no
longer so nimble on their feet – but
the Malta Experience is a reliable
crowd-pleaser.
With an engaging
retro-chic style, this colourful
audiovisual production tells quite
a story, spicing up 7,000 years of
Valletta’s history and condensing it
into a breezy 45-minute running
time.
Shown in a purpose-built
auditorium every hour through the
middle of the day, it’s also a good
option if anyone’s finding the
Mediterranean heat a little too much.
PLACES TO EAT
Budget
Don’t sail out of Valletta without trying
the famous street food pastizzi. These
moreish pastries are traditionally filled
with lightly curried mushy peas or
ricotta cheese, enclosed by a croissant-
style crust of filo pastry.
But there are
plenty of more exotic fillings, too, such
as truffle and Maltese sausage, and you’ll
find them all in bars and cafés across the
city.
A hole in the wall on Merchants
Street, near St John’s Cathedral,
Manuela Malta Pastizzi bakes them fresh
every morning – but be warned, you
might discover that one isn’t enough.
Mid range
With the sun beaming down there is no
better place for wining and dining than
St George’s Square. Recline outdoors at
Fifty Nine Republic by the Grandmaster’s
Palace and you’ll eat like a king – or at
least one of the Knights Hospitaller.
Sip
Maltese wine and feast on oysters with
an umami kick, perfectly seared scallops
and immaculate beef Wellington, all
prepared by Maria Sammut, who was
voted best Maltese chef 2023 by the guide
Wines and Restaurants of Malta. The
outdoor terrace is a winner even after
sundown, when patio heaters come out.
Premium
Soaring almost within touching
distance of your table, you’d think
Valletta’s massive fortifications would
be the talking point at The Chophouse.
But no, it’s the food. Beef steaks are
superbly succulent and the locally
caught sea bass is perfectly
complemented by a smoked fish
emulsion and bonito flakes.
Chef David
Micallef Sant says, “Maltese cooking is unique. We get influences from
Europe, Africa and the Middle East.
We are a meeting place for cuisines
and you taste that on the plate.”
With time to linger, try some of the restaurant’s 300-plus wines, all stored in a humidity and temperature-controlled cave.
HOW TO TRAVEL RESPONSIBLY
Malta’s characterful but smoke-
belching vintage buses are gone –
to the regret of some but the
benefit of the environment – and a
fleet of 400 modern replacements
now offers sustainable, efficient
and affordable travel.
Head north
through the Three Cities or check
out the tourist hotspots of Sliema
– admiring the painted dome of
Stella Maris Church – and St Julian’s,
where Balluta Bay Beach beckons.
Alternatively, leave the coast to
explore the ancient city of Mdina.
TRIP PLANNER
In the middle of the Med, Malta
makes an ideal stop between
Greece and Italy. A typically
Mediterranean climate means the
island is hot in the summer and
mild but wet in winter. Spring and autumn are great times to go,
especially before the weather has
warmed up at home.
GET ON BOARDSwan Hellenic’s eight-night Secrets of Sicily cruise aboard SH Diana, return from Palermo via Trapani, Mazara del Vallo, Porto Empedocle, Valletta, Siracusa, Taormina and Lipari, departs on August 20, 2024. Fares from £4,680 per person.
Viking’s 15-night Malta, Morocco & the Mediterranean cruise onboard Viking Saturn, return from Barcelona via Marseille, Ajaccio, Rome (Civitavecchia), Valletta, Tunis, Algiers, Casablanca, Seville and Malaga, departs January 20, 2025. Fares from £6,290 per person including flights.
LOCAL INSIGHT
Start your day at Lot 61, a coffee shop
with fantastic blends, then visit
Mysterium Fidei Museum at St
Catherine’s monastery, which was
closed to the public for 400 years. For
photos, appreciate our Grand Harbour
from Upper Barrakka Gardens.
Mario Cacciottolo, Owner and guide, Dark Malta Tours
“For quiet drinks, go to Ġugar, a tiny, hip and laidback bar. Gourmet Café has the best coffee. For lunch, try Elia Greek Cuisine, which serves filling salads, or go to ImPasta for a good plate of tagliatelle.”
James Vella Clark, artist
“With 320 monuments packed into just half a square kilometre, Valletta is one of the world’s most densely historic areas. Just enjoy walking the streets of the world’s most beautiful capital.”
Petra Van Der Boom, guide, City Walking Tours Malta
