An expert cruise port guide to Seattle

Nestled on a strip of land flanked by the Puget Sound and freshwater Lake Washington, Seattle is fringed by mountains – the Olympic range to the west and the Cascades to the east.

Rich in natural resources, the land attracted the indigenous Suquamish and Duwamish tribes long before the first Europeans arrived in the late 1700s – hence the city’s name, which derives from the Duwamish leader Sealth.

Following a new railway line in the 1870s, Seattle’s population boomed and its logging, fishing and shipbuilding industries prospered.

The discovery of gold in neighbouring Canada and the US state of Alaska in the 1890s meant Seattle continued to flourish, attracting Scandinavians, Italians and East Asians looking for work.

The First World War bolstered the city’s shipbuilding industry, which, following a dip during the 1930s depression, continued to thrive during the Second World War.

Today, Seattle is known as the gateway to Alaska, but with a clutch of museums, parks and waterway adventures, it more than holds its own.

WHAT TO DO

Space Needle
First-time visitor in Seattle? Then start at the Space Needle, which was built for the 1962 World’s Fair and named after the event’s space theme. At 184m tall it is roughly the height of London’s 30 St Mary Axe – the 41-storey building better known as the Gherkin.

The tower’s saucer-shaped observation deck features a rotating glass floor with views of the city and a 360° indoor and outdoor panorama of the Puget Sound and beyond, all the way to Mount Rainier and the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges.

Chihuly Garden and Glass
Next to the Space Needle, Chihuly Garden and Glass is dedicated to glass artist Dale Chihuly. Born in the nearby city of Tacoma and trained in Venice, he has exhibited around the world, from the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris to London’s V&A and Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.

As well as works in the garden, there are daily live glass demonstrations and eight galleries – but the glasshouse is the attraction’s showstopper, with a 30m-long flame- hued installation hanging from the ceiling and glinting in the sun.

Kayak on Lake Union
For an active excursion, snap photos of the Space Needle while exploring Lake Union on a kayak or paddle-board with Northwest Outdoor Centre. John Meyer co-founded the company with his brother in 1980. He says: “From our docks you can see tall ships and tugs, barges and tiki party pontoons.

"You might also spot great blue herons, cormorants and Canadian geese. Peregrine falcons and ospreys nest on the shore, there are eagle fish in the water, and seals chase spawning salmon into the lake in summer.”

ACTIVITIES FOR REPEAT VISITORS

Off-beat
If kayaking sounds like hard work, then how about unwinding in a floating Jacuzzi instead? Lake Union’s ‘hot tub boats’ are easy to navigate, so you can captain your own vessel.

Powered by an electric motor, the boats are filled with metre-deep fresh water warmed by burning recycled logs. Simply adjust the heat to your desired temperature and set sail.

Alternatively, join locals on stand-up paddleboards and kayaks as you navigate past seaplanes and houseboats

Unique
The National Nordic Museum is the only museum in the United States that tells the story of 12,000 years of history and culture in the five Nordic countries, plus the autonomous regions of Greenland, Aland and the Faroe Islands.

Chief curator Leslie Anne Anderson says: “The museum is in the Ballard neighbourhood, which has a rich history of Nordic immigrants.”

Among its 80,000 artefacts, highlights include a Viking burial, snowshoes worn by the polar explorer Roald Amundsen, the oldest Finnish-style sauna in the US and an installation of stained-glass birds by the Faroese artist Trondur Patursson.

Outdoor
Ferries shuttle across Elliott Bay from Seattle Ferry Terminal to Bainbridge Island in 35 minutes. After a coffee at Blackbird Bakery, try pickleball at Founders Courts, as the racket sport was invented here.

Stop for Vietnamese at Ba Sa, local oysters at Seabird or for a drink at Bainbridge Apothecary and Tea Shop, then amble around the Grand Forest or Bloedel Reserve. Before you return to your ship, meet ‘Pia the Peacekeeper,’ a six-metre troll sculpted by Thomas Dambo.

ACTIVITIES FOR CURIOUS TRAVELLERS

Solo explorers
Travelling alone is an opportunity to discover galleries at your own pace. Seattle Art Museum, downtown, is home to 25,000 international works of art. Recent acquisitions include a seventh- century Chinese manuscript and ‘Preview Seattle Art Museum,’ a 1940s watercolour by Theodora Harrison.

The gallery is also responsible for the Olympic Sculpture Park, a three-and- a-half hectare outdoor space on the waterfront. Its other sister site, Seattle Asian Art Museum, is nestled in Volunteer Park, with a 2,000-strong collection including a bejewelled and enthroned Buddha from 1870s Myanmar (Burma).

Couples
Woodinville Wine Country is packed with tasting rooms and 120 wineries, many of which offer behind-the-scenes tours.

The region’s executive director Adam Acampora says: “Woodinville is the beating heart of Washington wine. It’s where legendary producers like Chateau St Michelle and new upstart Damsel trade tips while lending each other a hand in the cellar.

"It’s not about the ritz or the glitz; it’s about what wine can be when we strip away the pretence and drink it all in.”

Ask if your pre-cruise hotel runs shuttles to the area. If not, take a Butler Seattle tour or book an Uber (£95 return, 35 minutes).

Teenagers
Film and music fans won’t want to miss MoPop – the Museum of Pop Culture – which has an 80,000-strong collection packed with creepy masks and iconic album and magazine covers.

Not all items are on display at once but you can get up close to Dorothy’s powder-blue gingham dress from the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz, singer Jimi Hendrix’s smashed guitar, and a proton pack from the 1989 film Ghostbusters II.

Temporary events include a family drag workshop or the chance to make a music video, and there are sensory- friendly visiting hours, which are quieter with fewer bright lights.

Multi-gen
Whether you’re eight or 88 you’ll delight in spotting cetaceans in the waters around the city. Kenmore Air’s day trip package includes a return seaplane to San Juan Island and three hours’ whale-watching.

President David Gudgel says: "We fly at an altitude of 455m which allows you to see bald eagles and sea otters in the Puget Sound. You might also glimpse orca, humpback and grey whales.”

Take the South Lake Union tram from Westlake Hub, near the cruise terminal, and alight at Westlake Avenue North and Ninth Avenue North station. An Uber takes 15 minutes (£15).

PLACES TO EAT

Budget
Every visitor to Seattle visits Pike Place Market, which was founded in 1907. Opposite the original Starbucks, the 10-storey emporium is packed with 500 independent vendors selling everything from flowers to fresh fish.

Listen to buskers as you pull up a bar stool at Pike Place Chowder for a steaming bowl of its speciality, or order a Bagelbop sandwich stuffed with crab, spicy pork or Korean beef bulgogi. Got a sweet tooth? Then take your pick from mini doughnuts, crêpes and dark chocolate ice cream for dessert.

Mid-range
If you’re keen to support a transgender- owned business, then dine at Cafe Flora near Seattle Japanese Garden, which has been going strong since 1991.

Eco-conscious owner Nat Stratton- Clarke serves vegetarian and vegan dishes such as kimchi black bean burgers, rosemary biscuits and mushroom gravy, and coconut cake made from organic and sustainable produce – much of which is sourced from local farmers’ markets.The café also supports a host of charities to help LGBTQ+ and homeless communities.

Premium
If you’re looking for something special, then book a table at Canlis. Voted Food & Wine’s best new chef in 2023, Aisha Ibrahim serves steak, a seasonal seven-course menu and the Canlis salad – which has been on the menu since the restaurant opened in 1950.

Its director of special operations Abby Lewis says: “No one ever ends up at Canlis by accident. It is a landmark where people from near and far celebrate special moments. With sweeping views of Lake Union and the Cascade Mountains, it is a welcoming enclave just five minutes from downtown. The cuisine highlights the bounty of the Pacific Northwest while drawing from Japanese influences.”

HOW TO TRAVEL RESPONSIBLY
Founded in 1934 on the shores of Lake Washington, Washington Park Arboretum stretches over 93 hectares of woodland, wetland and gardens.

If you’re inspired to give back after trekking to its lookout points or strolling along its azalea path, through the Seattle Japanese Garden and rhododendron glen, you can support the Arboretum Foundation by donating or by sponsoring a bench or tree. See arboretumfoundation.org.

LOCAL INSIGHT

"The University District is my favourite neighbourhood. The diverse student body is reflected in the affordable eateries and dive bars that line University Avenue. Burke Museum, Henry Art Gallery and the outdoor mall University Village are also worth visiting.”
Christine Jones, teacher

“One of the best ways to spend an afternoon is grabbing a lobster roll to go from Local Tide in Fremont and a six-pack from Aslan Brewing Co next door, then heading to Golden Gardens Park for a sunset picnic on the beach.”
Sadie Carson, public relations professional

“Hop on a ferry to take in the beauty of crossing the sound, then spend a laidback day in our island communities. We cherish being close to nature, and nothing gets you further from the city quicker than a 30-minute boat ride.”
Brendan McGill, chef