An expert cruise port guide to Seattle
There will be no time to sleep in Seattle if you want to
experience its food market, the world’s only rotating glass
floor and surrounding vineyards
Nestled on a strip of land
flanked by the Puget Sound
and freshwater Lake
Washington, Seattle is fringed
by mountains – the Olympic range to the west and the Cascades to the east.
Rich in natural resources, the land
attracted the indigenous Suquamish and
Duwamish tribes long before the first
Europeans arrived in the late 1700s –
hence the city’s name, which derives
from the Duwamish leader Sealth.
Following a new railway line in the 1870s, Seattle’s population boomed and its logging, fishing and shipbuilding industries prospered.
The discovery of gold in neighbouring Canada and the US state of Alaska in the 1890s meant Seattle continued to flourish, attracting Scandinavians, Italians and East Asians looking for work.
The First World War bolstered the city’s shipbuilding industry, which, following a dip during the 1930s depression, continued to thrive during the Second World War.
Today, Seattle is known as the gateway to Alaska, but with a clutch of museums, parks and waterway adventures, it more than holds its own.
WHAT TO DO
Space NeedleFirst-time visitor in Seattle? Then start
at the Space Needle, which was built
for the 1962 World’s Fair and named after
the event’s space theme. At 184m tall
it is roughly the height of London’s 30 St Mary Axe – the 41-storey building
better known as the Gherkin.
The
tower’s saucer-shaped observation
deck features a rotating glass floor
with views of the city and a 360° indoor
and outdoor panorama of the Puget
Sound and beyond, all the way to
Mount Rainier and the Cascade and
Olympic mountain ranges.
Chihuly Garden and Glass
Next to the Space Needle, Chihuly
Garden and Glass is dedicated to glass
artist Dale Chihuly. Born in the nearby
city of Tacoma and trained in Venice, he
has exhibited around the world, from
the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris to London’s V&A and Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew.
As well as works in the
garden, there are daily live glass
demonstrations and eight galleries –
but the glasshouse is the attraction’s
showstopper, with a 30m-long flame-
hued installation hanging from the
ceiling and glinting in the sun.
Kayak on Lake UnionFor an active excursion, snap photos
of the Space Needle while exploring
Lake Union on a kayak or paddle-board
with Northwest Outdoor Centre. John
Meyer co-founded the company with
his brother in 1980. He says: “From our
docks you can see tall ships and tugs,
barges and tiki party pontoons.
"You
might also spot great blue herons,
cormorants and Canadian geese.
Peregrine falcons and ospreys nest
on the shore, there are eagle fish in
the water, and seals chase spawning
salmon into the lake in summer.”
ACTIVITIES FOR REPEAT VISITORS
Off-beatIf kayaking sounds like hard work, then
how about unwinding in a floating
Jacuzzi instead? Lake Union’s ‘hot tub
boats’ are easy to navigate, so you can
captain your own vessel.
Powered by an
electric motor, the boats are filled with
metre-deep fresh water warmed by
burning recycled logs. Simply adjust the
heat to your desired temperature and set
sail.
Alternatively, join locals on stand-up
paddleboards and kayaks as you
navigate past seaplanes and houseboats
UniqueThe National Nordic Museum is the only
museum in the United States that tells
the story of 12,000 years of history and
culture in the five Nordic countries, plus
the autonomous regions of Greenland,
Aland and the Faroe Islands.
Chief
curator Leslie Anne Anderson says: “The museum is in the Ballard
neighbourhood, which has a rich history
of Nordic immigrants.”
Among its
80,000 artefacts, highlights include a Viking burial, snowshoes worn by the
polar explorer Roald Amundsen, the
oldest Finnish-style sauna in the US and
an installation of stained-glass birds by
the Faroese artist Trondur Patursson.
Outdoor
Ferries shuttle across Elliott Bay from
Seattle Ferry Terminal to Bainbridge
Island in 35 minutes. After a coffee at Blackbird Bakery, try pickleball at
Founders Courts, as the racket sport
was invented here.
Stop for Vietnamese at Ba Sa, local oysters at Seabird or for a drink at Bainbridge Apothecary and Tea Shop, then amble around the Grand Forest or Bloedel Reserve. Before you return to your ship, meet ‘Pia the Peacekeeper,’ a six-metre troll sculpted by Thomas Dambo.
ACTIVITIES FOR CURIOUS TRAVELLERS
Solo explorersTravelling alone is an opportunity to discover galleries at your own pace. Seattle Art Museum, downtown, is home to 25,000 international works of art. Recent acquisitions include a seventh- century Chinese manuscript and ‘Preview Seattle Art Museum,’ a 1940s watercolour by Theodora Harrison.
The gallery is also responsible for the Olympic Sculpture Park, a three-and- a-half hectare outdoor space on the waterfront. Its other sister site, Seattle Asian Art Museum, is nestled in Volunteer Park, with a 2,000-strong collection including a bejewelled and enthroned Buddha from 1870s Myanmar (Burma).
CouplesWoodinville Wine Country is packed
with tasting rooms and 120 wineries,
many of which offer behind-the-scenes
tours.
The region’s executive director
Adam Acampora says: “Woodinville is
the beating heart of Washington wine.
It’s where legendary producers like
Chateau St Michelle and new upstart
Damsel trade tips while lending each
other a hand in the cellar.
"It’s not about
the ritz or the glitz; it’s about what wine
can be when we strip away the pretence
and drink it all in.”
Ask if your pre-cruise
hotel runs shuttles to the area. If not,
take a Butler Seattle tour or book an
Uber (£95 return, 35 minutes).
TeenagersFilm and music fans won’t want to miss
MoPop – the Museum of Pop Culture
– which has an 80,000-strong
collection packed with creepy masks
and iconic album and magazine covers.
Not all items are on display at once but
you can get up close to Dorothy’s
powder-blue gingham dress from the
1939 film The Wizard of Oz, singer Jimi
Hendrix’s smashed guitar, and a proton
pack from the 1989 film Ghostbusters II.
Temporary events include a family drag
workshop or the chance to make a
music video, and there are sensory-
friendly visiting hours, which are quieter
with fewer bright lights.
Multi-gen
Whether you’re eight or 88 you’ll delight
in spotting cetaceans in the waters
around the city. Kenmore Air’s day trip
package includes a return seaplane
to San Juan Island and three hours’
whale-watching.
President David Gudgel
says: "We fly at an altitude of 455m which
allows you to see bald eagles and sea
otters in the Puget Sound. You might
also glimpse orca, humpback and grey
whales.”
Take the South Lake Union tram from Westlake Hub, near the cruise
terminal, and alight at Westlake Avenue
North and Ninth Avenue North station.
An Uber takes 15 minutes (£15).
PLACES TO EAT
BudgetEvery visitor to Seattle visits Pike Place
Market, which was founded in 1907.
Opposite the original Starbucks, the
10-storey emporium is packed with
500 independent vendors selling
everything from flowers to fresh fish.
Listen to buskers as you pull up a bar
stool at Pike Place Chowder for a
steaming bowl of its speciality, or order
a Bagelbop sandwich stuffed with crab,
spicy pork or Korean beef bulgogi. Got
a sweet tooth? Then take your pick
from mini doughnuts, crêpes and dark
chocolate ice cream for dessert.
Mid-rangeIf you’re keen to support a transgender-
owned business, then dine at Cafe Flora
near Seattle Japanese Garden, which
has been going strong since 1991.
Eco-conscious owner Nat Stratton-
Clarke serves vegetarian and vegan
dishes such as kimchi black bean
burgers, rosemary biscuits and
mushroom gravy, and coconut cake
made from organic and sustainable
produce – much of which is sourced
from local farmers’ markets.The café
also supports a host of charities to help
LGBTQ+ and homeless communities.
PremiumIf you’re looking for something
special, then book a table at Canlis.
Voted Food & Wine’s best new chef in
2023, Aisha Ibrahim serves steak, a
seasonal seven-course menu and the
Canlis salad – which has been on the
menu since the restaurant opened in
1950.
Its director of special operations
Abby Lewis says: “No one ever ends up
at Canlis by accident. It is a landmark
where people from near and far
celebrate special moments. With
sweeping views of Lake Union and the
Cascade Mountains, it is a welcoming
enclave just five minutes from
downtown. The cuisine highlights the
bounty of the Pacific Northwest while
drawing from Japanese influences.”
HOW TO TRAVEL
RESPONSIBLY
Founded in 1934 on the shores of
Lake Washington, Washington Park
Arboretum stretches over 93
hectares of woodland, wetland and
gardens.
If you’re inspired to give
back after trekking to its lookout
points or strolling along its azalea
path, through the Seattle Japanese
Garden and rhododendron glen,
you can support the Arboretum
Foundation by donating or by
sponsoring a bench or tree. See
arboretumfoundation.org.
LOCAL INSIGHT
"The University District is my favourite
neighbourhood. The diverse student
body is reflected in the affordable
eateries and dive bars that line
University Avenue. Burke Museum,
Henry Art Gallery and the outdoor mall
University Village are also worth visiting.”
Christine Jones, teacher
“One of the best ways to spend an
afternoon is grabbing a lobster roll to
go from Local Tide in Fremont and a
six-pack from Aslan Brewing Co next
door, then heading to Golden Gardens
Park for a sunset picnic on the beach.”
Sadie Carson, public relations professional
“Hop on a ferry to take in the beauty of
crossing the sound, then spend a
laidback day in our island communities.
We cherish being close to nature, and
nothing gets you further from the city
quicker than a 30-minute boat ride.”
Brendan McGill, chef
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About Sarah Riches
After a five-year stint living in Asia, Sarah was inspired to become a travel journalist. Sarah has freelanced for Condé Nast Traveller and National Geographic Traveller and is the author of London Almanac (2010) and Culture Smart! The Essential Guide to British Customs & Culture (2024). She was also the deputy editor of Time Out Abu Dhabi, Where London and London Planner, digital editor of Wanderlust – the UK’s oldest travel magazine.
