Cruise port guide to Fort Lauderdale
Creamy sands fringed by palm trees, waterways adorned with mansions and a thriving culinary scene captivate visitors to Miami’s neighbouring port city, writes Sarah Riches
Sprawling along Florida’s shores, Fort Lauderdale lies just a 30- minute drive north of Miami.
With 265km of canals, the city is dubbed the Venice of America, though its past is closer to Spain’s than Italy’s after Spanish explorers arrived in 1513.
By the 1700s, most of the land’s indigenous inhabitants, the Tequesta, had died battling the Spanish, succumbed to European diseases or fled to Cuba.
The Spanish also won battles against the Seminole tribe in the 1800s, before being defeated by the US, although Spain’s influence is still evident today in people and place names.
The creation of the Florida East Coast Railway in the late 1800s marked the beginning of a prosperous era before a period of decline following a 1926 hurricane and 1930s Great Depression.
But the Sunshine State’s beaches and network of canals lured visitors back, and today the cruise industry body CLIA ranks the city’s Port Everglades as the world’s third busiest port for embarking on a cruise.
If you’re planning a visit, here’s your chance to meet residents to discover why they love their city – and what you can see and do there.
Three unmissable things to do
Hit the beach
The city is blessed with beaches, from Las Olas north of the cruise terminal to Dania and Hollywood to the south.
Only have time for one? Make it Fort Lauderdale Beach – a five kilometre strip embellished with palm trees. Hire a kayak under a lifeguard’s watch or cycle on rented bikes along the adjacent path.
Look out for the pedestrian tunnel that connects to Hugh Taylor Birch Park, popular with picnickers and rollerskaters. Park manager Shane Zigler says, “With a freshwater lake between the famed beach and intercoastal waterway, it’s a haven of tranquillity.”
Las Olas Boulevard
Fort Lauderdale’s answer to Rodeo Drive, Las Olas Boulevard stretches four kilometres west of the coast – which is fitting, as its name is Spanish for ‘the waves.’
Allow time to peruse the city’s oldest surviving home, Historic Stranahan House Museum, and New River Fine Art, which exhibits works by established and emerging artists.
Graphic designer Isaiah Etienne says, “Known for its vibrant atmosphere, Las Olas Boulevard’s scenic canal views and charming streets make it a favourite spot among locals and visitors.”
Bonnet House Museum & Gardens
Built in 1920 for a lawyer’s artistic daughter and son-in-law Frederic Bartlett, this plantation-style villa is now on the National Register of Historic Places.
CEO Patrick Shavloske says, “It was designed to be a beachside artist retreat as well as a home. The studio is my favourite room. Yes, there’s a marble fireplace, but one can still imagine Frederic at his easel, with light from the north-facing window illuminating the room.”
After browsing the collection, amble around the estate looking for raccoons and monkeys in the forest and manatees by the water.
Three activities for repeat visitors
Off-beat
Why go bar hopping when you can hop on the bar? That’s the tagline of Cruisin’ Tikis, a floating tiki bar that drifts down the New River.
Sheltered by a palm-fringed roof, the wraparound bar comes with six bamboo stools, captain and pirate ship- style wooden steering wheel.
Pack some drinks, don a floral shirt and relax on a scenic sail from Historic Downtowner, a riverside terrace with live bands, DJs and trivia nights. Jump in for a swim, spot dolphins, stingrays and turtles or enjoy sundowners on a charter set to music.
Unique
A former orange grove, Flamingo Gardens was established in 1927 as a home for rare and native plant species such as champion trees, which can grow up to 40m high.
Stretching over 25 hectares – the same size as the grounds of Hampton Court Palace in Surrey – there’s ample space for untouched tropical hardwood forest, cacti and orchid gardens.
There’s also a birds of prey centre, butterfly conservatory and a sanctuary for injured wildlife such as its namesake as well as alligators, panthers, peacocks and bobcats.
Outdoor
Swap your cruise ship for a smaller vessel to explore the city’s waterways.
On a budget? Then board LauderGo!’s free water taxi from near Historic Stranahan House Museum on the New River’s north bank to Tarpon River on the south bank.
If your cruise allows time in port after dusk, board Flamingo Yacht Charters’ Monterey at sunset to see the marina, 1930s riverboats and homes along Millionaire’s Row, or unwind under a full moon in a Venetian gondola with Las Olas Gondola.
Four activities for curious travellers
Solo explorers
Travelling alone? Then you can take all the time you want in NSU Art Museum. Founded in 1958 in a Modernist building, the gallery specialises in 20th-century and contemporary art particularly by black, Latino and female artists such as Frida Kahlo, Tracey Emin and Cindy Sherman.
Don’t miss Jen Stark’s psychedelic “Acid-Free” (2011) mural, which resembles paint dripping down the side of the building. Once you’ve seen the exhibits, linger in the 256-seat auditorium, café and shop, all of which are a stroll away from Las Olas Boulevard and the riverbank promenade.
Couples
Dress up for a date night at Broward Center for the Performing Arts, which has a lively calendar packed with everything from Broadway musicals and stand-up comedy to opera and classical ballet.
Recent shows include an Abba tribute, an orchestral performance to accompany the 2023 animated film Spider-Man: Across the Spider-Verse, and a gig by modern jazz great Herbie Hancock.
Go early to dine at its riverside bistro, which serves a three-course fixed-price menu, then stay for after- show drinks at the bar, which has panoramic views of the river.
Teenagers
Your teens will surely rack up likes and followers across their socials after a day at Everglades Holiday Park, as the estate offers thrilling airboat rides through the Florida everglades.
As you whizz past cypress trees, keep your eyes peeled for alligators. Isaiah Etienne recommends the experience for close-up encounters with various animals, including Al the baby alligator. “In a private area of the park,” he says, “you will enjoy personal interactions with wildlife and learn from expert handlers in a relaxed setting.” You can also canoe or hike in the area.
Multi-gen families
Replica Jack Sparrows complete with marine arm tattoos can board Bluefoot Pirate Adventures’ pirate ship to listen to legends, complete a treasure hunt and follow nautical maps to locate landmarks.
All ages can chat to the captain and learn about the yachts lining the shore. Isaiah adds, “Kids can enjoy face painting and learn pirate slang before setting sail. The fun includes finding a message in a bottle, searching for lost treasure and battling Barnacle Bill with water cannons. Every junior pirate leaves with a bag of treasure, pirate certificate and unforgettable memories.”
Three places to eat
Budget
A Fort Lauderdale institution, Jaxson’s Ice Cream Parlour & Restaurant has been serving hot dogs and burgers in the Dania Beach neighbourhood since 1956.
It has everything you could want from a diner, from a red and white striped awning and miniature carousel for three children outside to walls plastered with number plates inside.
Order a sundae to share and it’ll come with paper stars and stripes poking out of mounds of whipped cream sprinkled with hundreds and thousands. Its signature dessert comes with the works – and it’s served in a kitchen sink.
Mid-range
Perched upon the banks of Lake Placid, Cap’s Place Island Restaurant is named after its first owner, Captain Theodore Knight.
Dating back to 1928, it’s on the National Register of Historic Places – Winston Churchill and Franklin D Roosevelt met here in the Second World War, and Al Capone, the Beatles’ George Harrison and Mariah Carey have dined here too.
A bamboo bar, fishnet curtains and original panelling hung with curios scavenged from the sea make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Order crab cakes, grouper chowder or its speciality, hearts of palm salad.
Premium
Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club in Surfside has attracted the rich and famous since 1930, and its rebuilt The Surf Club Restaurant still draws gourmets today.
Pull up a stool by the golden backlit bar or sink into velvet banquettes in baby pink and blue by murals of beaches that trick the eye.
Dine on signature dishes such as Maine lobster thermidor and coconut chiffon cake prepared by the multi- Michelin star chef Thomas Keller, winner of The Culinary Institute of America’s Chef of the Year award.
How to travel responsibly
As a cruise-goer, your choices impact the neighbourhoods you visit, so consider giving back by dining at a non-profit organisation.
Chef Regina Silva raises funds for her community by inviting guests to dine under the stars at Regina’s Farm, surrounded by roaming chickens and rabbits.
Take a tractor ride, mingle with other guests and sip coffee or sugarcane as Regina serves you homecooked Brazilian cheese bread, corn and bacon soup and flans prepared on a woodburning stove from her home state, Minas Gerais.