Arabian dreams: Cruise guide to the Arabian Peninsula

Women embellished with mehndi tattoos as delicate as lace float into a café dressed in abayas. Next door, groups of men in floor-length dishdashas and thawbs share apple-scented shisha and a joke, as a mosque’s call to prayer ricochets around the neighbourhood.

This is the real Arabia. And if you peek behind Doha’s glitzy malls or Dubai’s five-star hotels, this is what you’ll find – because the Arabian Peninsula is so much more than the stereotypes it has been reduced to.

So swap a tour of Dubai’s sailboat-shaped hotel for the chance to taste Omani frankincense, learn about Saudi’s heritage or inhale oud perfume in Bahrain for a deeper insight into this extraordinary region.

Oman

Archaeological evidence indicates that Oman was inhabited 100,000 years ago, and the three UNESCO World Heritage sites in northern Oman form the most complete collection of 3rd millennium BCE settlements and necropolises in the world.

Between the 1500s and 1750s, the Portuguese, Persians and Ottomans controlled much of the region. Oman fought back, and by the 1800s had expanded into present-day Pakistan and eastern Africa.

After a 60-year stint as a British protectorate, Oman became independent in 1951. The discovery of oil in the 1960s and a new, more liberal ruler in 1970 hauled Oman into the 21st century.

Today, much of its 4.6 million population lives in the capital, Muscat, which is embraced by a bay and cocooned by mountains, 20 minutes’ drive west of Port Sultan Qaboos.

To appreciate Oman’s past, peruse the National Museum and Bait Al Zubair, a heritage centre that is bursting with antique maps, weapons, jewellery and traditional dress.

Islam was introduced to Oman in the seventh century, as the mosques strewn across Muscat demonstrate. The country’s largest, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, has capacity for 20,000 worshippers.

Its call to prayer resounds around the city, while its main minaret – as tall as London’s Big Ben – looms over the garden.

Take shade in the indoor market, Muttrah Souk. Local resident Ali Marhubi, raised in Muscat and now working for a software company, promises you’ll be captivated by the scent of black lime, saffron and frankincense – a symbol of Oman’s rich heritage.

“You may be able to sample frankincense water, which aids digestion, or smell the aroma of oud,” he says.

“This time-honoured perfume, deeply rooted in Omani culture, evokes memories of dressing up in your finest attire and basking in the warmth of family gatherings during Eid.”

In the afternoon, escape the heat of the city on a traditional dhow boat. Listen to the haunting song of humpback whales as you scan the horizon for spinner and bottlenose dolphins, or go diving to encounter whale sharks, barracudas and turtles.

At dusk, visit the Royal Opera House or do as the locals do and amble along the Corniche, where children engage in spirited football matches on makeshift pitches.

Tour guide and OmanTripper blogger Ali Mohammadi recommends trying Omani coffee and halwa sweets from Al Diwaniya on the waterfront. “It’s a magical feeling as the sun sets to the sounds of seagulls, waves crashing on the beach and call to prayers.”

Get on board

Marella Discovery 2 ’s 14-night ‘Arabian Sunrise 1’ itinerary departs from Colombo, Sri Lanka, on April 11, 2024, calling at India and Jordan, with an evening and a day in Muscat, Oman. Prices start from £1,744 and include flights.

Queen Anne’s 22-night ‘Dubai to Hamburg’ voyage departs on April 7, 2025 from Dubai, stopping for a day in Muscat as well as in Egypt, Malta and Spain. Prices start from £2,359.

Aroya Cruises’ voyages to Salalah in southern Oman and Khasab in northeastern Oman will also launch soon.

The United Arab Emirates (UAE)

The UAE may only have been founded in 1971 – the same year Rod Stewart’s Maggie May reached number one in the UK – but it has been inhabited for millennia.

A 4,000-year-old stone tomb and Iron Age irrigation system – both UNESCO World Heritage sites in Al Ain – reveal that the region has been occupied continuously since Neolithic times – long before nomadic Bedouin tribes traversed the Rub’ al Khali (Empty Quarter) desert.

After establishing a pearl trade, the Trucial States – Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras al-Khaimah, Sharjah and Umm al-Quwain – became a British protectorate from 1820 until Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan became the first UAE president in 1971. By then, the country had discovered oil and was flourishing.

Uncover more about the UAE’s past at Al Jahili Fort in Al Ain, before taking shade beneath a canopy of date palms and fig, mango and sidr trees in Al Ain Oasis, which sprawls across an area the size of London’s Heathrow Airport.

In the capital, Abu Dhabi, you can see camels, watch pottery artisans at work and weave fabric on a loom in the Heritage Village, or kayak in the mangroves in the late afternoon – keeping an eye out for flamingos, turtles and sea snakes.

At sunset, visit Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Settled on a hill, the majestic place of worship takes pride of place in the city, gleaming white like a tiered wedding cake on a bride and groom’s top table.

Linger until the lights come on to see it glittering in the inky waters that surround it, then head to the waterfront, suggests local resident Paul Choufani, a senior product manager at a virtual assets firm. “To experience the UAE like a local, stroll along the Corniche,” he says, “enjoying the cool sea breeze and refreshments from the kiosks that line it.”

Alternatively, meander along the creek in Dubai. Dana Sleiman, a creative and cultural industries advisor, has lived in the city since 2013.

She says, “To see a different side of Dubai beyond the landmarks, stroll around Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood on foot.” Here you can visit Dubai Museum or share an Emirati meal at Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Centre for Cultural Understanding.

“You can also experience Emirati hospitality at XVA Art Cafe and the Arabian Tea House,” adds Dana. “Or cross the creek in a traditional abra boat to gold and spice markets.”

Get on board

Princess Cruises’ Island Princess sails from Dubai on March 13, 2025, for a 29-day segment of its world cruise, calling at Salalah in southern Oman, Petra in Jordan and Egypt, Greece and Turkey. Prices start from £4,299.

Royal Caribbean International’s Serenade of the Seas departs from Singapore on 24 April 2024 on a 15-night Ultimate India, Sri Lanka and Malaysia cruise, calling at Abu Dhabi and Dubai. Prices start from £1,467.

Qatar

Humans have inhabited Qatar since 4000BCE, with Bedouins and coastal communities adapting to its harsh climate by breeding camels, growing dates and fishing.

The population slowly grew, and by the 1920s, Qatar’s pearl trade was prospering. But it was the discovery of oil and gas in 1939 that changed everything. Change didn’t happen overnight, however.

As recently as the 1980s, the capital was still a sandpit as flat as Aladdin’s magic carpet – a far cry from the 3D Doha of today.

Delve between its skyscrapers and you’ll discover glimmers of the past – fort ruins here, watchtowers there, and Souk Waqif, a few streets inland. Here the heady scent of perfume mingles with the aroma of coffee beans and chillies stuffed in sacks. Vendors’ calls compete with squawking birds amid stalls laden with handwoven baskets, rugs and falcons – a prized pet for wealthy Qataris.

The market is one of the best places to sample authentic thareed, says Scott Campbell, editor-inchief of Middle East Traveller. “Thareed is a delightful combination of layers of flatbread soaked in an aromatic lamb or chicken stew,” explains Scott.

“The bread perfectly complements the hearty, flavourful stew, creating a comforting textural contrast. Seasoned with Middle Eastern spices like cardamom and turmeric, its depth of flavour speaks to Qatar’s culinary heritage.”

After lunch, take shade in Doha’s museums, which offer a profound insight into Oman’s identity and aspirations.

Designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel, the National Museum of Qatar resembles the naturally occurring desert rose crystal. Home to a sheikh’s palace, this cultural centre shines a light on the country’s natural history and development.

The Museum of Islamic Art, which houses artefacts spanning three continents and 1,400 years, is a 20-minute saunter away. Perched upon the coast like an ancient castle, it appears to guard the Corniche.

“The Corniche at dusk is a special place,” adds Scott. “As the sun sets, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, Doha’s skyline forms a breathtaking backdrop.

The sound of gentle waves lapping against the shore and the distant buzz of the city create a soothing yet lively atmosphere. The smell of the sea, mixed with the scent of local cuisine from nearby food stalls, provides a memorable Qatari experience.”

Get on board

Costa Cruises’ Costa Toscana leaves Dubai on March 2, 2024, for a seven-night round-trip voyage, calling at Abu Dhabi in the UAE and Doha in Qatar. Prices start from £429.

Celestyal offers a seven-night ‘Desert Days’ itinerary aboard Celestyal Journey, calling at Bahrain, Dubai, Khasab, Sir Bani Yas Island and Abu Dhabi. The round-trip voyage departs from Doha on November 9, 2024. Prices start from £469.

Bahrain

Excavations revealing evidence of the 5,000-year old Dilmun civilisation show Bahrain’s roots run as deep as the ghaf trees that thrive in its desert.

For centuries, the country benefited from being a strategic commercial and transit hub between the East and West, although it was also invaded and fought over many times.

In 1783, Ahmed Al Fateh conquered the land. The nation has been ruled by the same family ever since, although it was a British protectorate from the late 1800s to 1971, when it finally declared independence.

For a greater understanding of what makes Bahrain tick, explore the ruins of Qal’at al-Bahrain, a 20-minute drive west of the capital, Manama. As the core of the Dilmun society, this 12m-high mound offers proof of human inhabitation from 2300 BCE to the 1500s.

From there, drive south to a lone mesquite tree, miles from a visible water source. Scott, a former resident, explains its significance.

“The Tree of Life is an enigma, surrounded by myths and solitude in this vast, open space is profound. The dry desert air, the quiet and the sheer presence of this ancient, thriving tree amid barrenness evoke a feeling of wonder and introspection.”

Back in the city, you can get under the skin of Bahrain at Bahrain National Museum, which examines 6,000 years of history through fascinating displays of Dilmun graves, dioramas of artisans and models of wooden boats.

At lunch, seek out Haji’s Café on a humble side street, which is popular with locals dressed in thawbs. Order a plate of machboos – tender chunks of chicken, lamb or fish marinated in spices and served with basmati rice.

“This dish is the epitome of local cuisine and it resonates with the soul of the island,” says Scott. “It’s infused with a blend of cardamom, cinnamon and bay leaves, which legends,” he says. “It’s also a symbol of resilience and survival against all odds.

Away from the bustle of city life, it’s a place for reflection. The sense of solitude in this vast, open space is profound. The dry desert air, the quiet and the sheer presence of this ancient, thriving tree amid barrenness evoke a feeling of wonder and introspection.”

In the afternoon, dive into Manama Souk to browse stalls of hand-woven fabric, gold and oud. The market is also a culinary hotspot where you can try halwa, a rosewater pudding scattered with pistachios that glistens with pomegranate jewels.

Get on board

Ponant offers a 10-night sailing around Arabia aboard Le Bougainville. The ‘Musical Odyssey in the Middle East’ itinerary leaves Dubai for Muscat on November 23, 2024, with calls at Manama, (Bahrain), Dammam (Saudi Arabia), Doha and Abu Dhabi, followed by Khasab, the Daymaniyat Islands and Sur (all Oman). Prices start from £5,780.

Norwegian Cruise Line offers a seven-night voyage around Arabia aboard Norwegian Sky. The ‘Middle East: UAE, Saudi Arabia and Bahrain’ cruise departs from Doha on April 12, 2025, with calls at Dammam (Saudi Arabia), Manama and Sir Bani Yas Island (UAE), and overnight stops in Abu Dhabi and Dubai. Prices start from £965.

Saudi Arabia

Twenty thousand years ago, hunter-gatherers roamed the grasslands that swept across what is now Saudi Arabia. When the climate changed, the wadis (riverbeds) dried up, shrivelling like Bedouins after a lifetime in the sun.

This compelled early inhabitants to settle, domesticate goats, horses and camels and cultivate crops. Citizens traded dates, almonds and spices with their neighbours; this, along with the exchange of ideas from pilgrims drawn to Mecca after the seventh century, made them wealthy as the Islamic Empire began to blossom.

The Saudi capital, Riyadh, was founded in the 1820s. Oil was discovered here in the 1930s, after which King Abdulaziz modernised the country’s infrastructure, but Saudi Arabia opened to tourism only in 2019.

To understand Saudi’s development, visit Jeddah. Nestled on the Red Sea, this has been a significant city for merchants and worshippers since the seventh century.

Lose yourself among the maze of cobblestone lanes in Al Balad district, a UNESCO World Heritage site, valued for its authentic, low-rise homes built from coral, which feature beautifully carved latticed windows known as mashrabiya.

Local tour guide Abir Abusulayman says, “Arriving in Al Balad is like stepping back in time. To experience it, spend time chatting to locals. There’s a lot to discover, as each historic house has a story to tell. Its culinary scene is also really special; Al Harbi, Shawarma Al Arkan and Sobia Clay are some of my favourite places to eat.”

Former Saudi resident Scott recommends Souk Al Alawi, which runs through the heart of Al Balad. “The market is a sensory overload – the smell of incense, vibrant fabrics, the buzz of local life,” he recalls. Nasseef House is around the corner. “Once a palatial residence, it’s now a museum offering a glimpse into Jeddah’s merchant past,” he adds. “Its rooftop offers stunning views, especially at sunset when the city is bathed in golden light.”

At dusk, many locals also retreat to the Corniche, a leafy promenade that hugs the coast. From there, you can feel the spray of the King Fahd fountain – at 312m high, it’s taller than The Shard in London. Then turn north to gawp in awe at Al Rahma mosque, which appears to float on the water like a mirage in the desert.

Get on board

Windstar Cruises offers a nine-night ‘Arabian Nights and Egyptian Days’ cruise aboard Star Legend, sailing from Jeddah on March 9, 2026, with calls at Yanbu (Saudi Arabia), Sharm el Sheikh (Egypt) and Aqaba (Jordan). Prices start from £4,314.

Fred Olsen Cruise Lines’ Balmoral departs from Southampton on January 18, 2025 for an epic 82-night ‘Idyllic Islands and Captivating Cultures of Asia’ itinerary calling at Salalah and Muscat (Oman) and Jeddah. Prices start from £8,499.