A musical cruise hits a high note

It’s 7pm and I’m all dressed up for a classical musical concert in one of Vienna’s impressive palaces.

Five days into this classical music along the Danube cruise, I’ve strolled the atmospheric, cobbled streets and alleyways of Vienna – the city where Mozart came to prominence – visited the workshop of violin craftsman Alexander Schutz in Linz (where Beethoven finished his light-hearted Eighth during a brief 1812 stay) and marvelled at Passau’s beautiful baroque St Stephen’s Cathedral, home to Europe’s largest organ with its 17,774 pipes, 223 registers and four carillons.

I've been a travel writer for 18+ years so why did it take me until now to discover the delights (and convenience) of a river cruise?

Perhaps it’s because the standard river cruise has long been synonymous with the senior set and, in my early 40s, I don’t quite qualify. But just because it was, doesn’t mean it is. After an hour onboard, it becomes crystal clear that people embark on river cruises for all sorts of reasons.

On my Titan river sojourn there were three 50-something couples travelling together who’d met on a previous cruise, a mother and daughter duo celebrating their 70th and 40th birthdays respectively – and a healthy smattering of solo travellers such as 83-year-old Julie from Edinburgh, who said she didn’t mind exploring alone during the day but appreciated the company in the evening.

Arguably the biggest revelation is this: a river cruise is genuinely a holiday. All I had to do was get myself to the airport in order to catch a flight to Vienna, the starting point for my cruise along the Danube. And I didn’t even really have to do that because Titan arranges a private chauffeur airport transfer, included in the fare, for its customers.

Cruising ‘traditions’ including ‘Welcome’ and ‘Farewell’ gala dinners (an excuse to don your glitzy glad rags) are honoured but thankfully there is no old-fashioned fixed seating arrangements – allowing passengers to dine where and with whom they wish.

And there’s nothing ‘old school’ about the food onboard. I tuck into extensive breakfast buffets, multi-course lunches and complimentary afternoon teas served in the generously sized lounge whose floor-to-ceiling windows create a light and airy feel.

Somehow I still have room for dinner: five courses of fabulousness – expect typical dishes of the destinations along the sailing route – every evening.

When I’m not feasting, I go ashore to explore. In the charming town of Melk, with its renaissance townhouses and historic towers, the headline act is the hilltop Baroque Benedictine Abbey – included in my Titan package – that’s home to a library containing a great collection of old musical manuscripts and a particularly impressive church embellished with gold, marble and many frescoes.

Elsewhere I force myself on a brisk trot around Passau’s picturesque old town, the creation of Italian baroque masters, to burn off some calories.

In Bratislava my guide is Irena, a local who offers real insider knowledge about Slovakia’s “little big city” which is dominated by the whitewashed Bratislava Castle. It wasn’t until 1919 that Bratislava received its contemporary name. Up until then it was mostly known by its German name, Pressburg, being dominated by Austrians and other German-speakers.

Irena also lets us in on the best place to pick up fabled handicrafts and souvenirs such as šupulienky (corn husk dolls) and slivovica (a super strong plum brandy) for non-tourist prices. I love information like that – for me, travel is in the details.

In elegant Vienna, we are treated to a slice of Sachertorte (Vienna’s famous chocolate cake that was invented by chef Franz Sacher for Chancellor Metternich in 1832) and excellent cup of coffee in a traditional Viennese cafe that’s akin to stepping back into a bygone, golden era. Or as our waiter, dressed in black with a bow tie, told us: “When the world ends, come to Vienna as it’s 10 years behind everywhere else.”

Food isn’t Vienna’s only attraction: it’s nirvana for music lovers. Make no mistake, a large number of highly esteemed composers have lived and performed within Vienna’s fine baroque churches, palaces and concert halls including Mozart, Brahms, Schubert and Vivaldi. A relaxing coach tour takes us to the Imperial Palace where the Vienna Boys’ Choir perform every Sunday during High Mass in the Imperial Chapel.

Next up is Musikverein, the prestigious classical performance venue that the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra calls home.

I can’t leave Vienna without another classic experience: seeing St Stephen’s Cathedral – the gothic cathedral whose spire dominates the busy square of Stephansdom (and pretty much every postcard).

For me, however, the highlight is Budapest. Hungary’s charismatic capital is characterised by its striking architecture – expect a medley of eight architectural styles from Moorish revival to Neo Gothic. Must sees include the parliament where soldiers guard the crown of St Stephen, the Great Synagogue – Budapest has a thriving Jewish community – and St Stephen’s Basilica where some of the city’s most acclaimed musicians perform in organ concerts.

Another must is to meet the locals: everyone I encounter has strong, passionate views about the country's current prime minister, Viktor Orbán – a former professional footballer famed for antagonising the European Union.

Back onboard, the rooftop sun deck is a welcome spot to view the constantly changing river landscapes – think castles, cathedrals, grand architecture and, at night, twinkling city lights – for Europe’s second longest river is never less than scenic.

Meanwhile Viennese Waltz lessons and lectures from an onboard classical musical specialist that manage to be both informative and entertaining in equal measure, ensures there’s never a dull moment.

Evenings onboard revisit decades past. The affable Norman wins hearts with his mix of crowd-pleasing quizzes spanning the 50s through to the 90s – and charismatic renditions of bygone songs, which have passengers bopping in the lounge as the ship sets sail.

As I descend the gangway at the end of my week- long journey along the Danube, I realise I feel whole again – having made lasting memories to see me through the dark winter days back at the desk.

A river cruise may not be the hipsters’ choice, but I loved every minute.